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Charming, blue-collar Hilo is the unsung Hawaii SFGate Home Business Sports Entertainment Travel Jobs Real Estate Autos SFGate News Web by Charming, blue-collar Hilo is the unsung Hawaii Eric Brazil, Special to The Chronicle Sunday, August 25, 2002 now part of stylesheet -- Printable Version Email This Article Hilo, Hawaii --Because Hilo gets 130 inches of rain a year, lacks white-sand beaches and has a history of being clobbered by tsunamis, tourists tend to bypass Hawaii's second-biggest city. Big mistake. Hilo, the county seat of the Big Island, with a population of 47,000, has authentic South Seas charm, a vibrant local culture, a rich history and some of the grandest sights anywhere on the planet. Located on the windward side of the island, Hilo has taken a backseat as a tourist destination to the Kailua area on the Kona Coast, with its dry climate and reliable sunshine, luxury hotels, world-class sportfishing and famous coffee. Hilo's physical setting is spectacular, with false-fronted, early 20th century downtown buildings curving along Kamehameha Avenue around palm-lined Hilo Bay, and 13,796-foot Mauna Kea -- snow-crowned in winter -- rising majestically in the background. The city's tropical gardens are perpetually abloom with orchids, ginger and anthurium, and its orchards are heavy with avocados, bananas, guava and macadamia nuts. Just up the road, the active volcano Kilauea steams and smokes and sends molten lava streams snaking seaward. Unlike Honolulu, which is beset by many of the mainland's intractable big-city problems, or Kailua-Kona, with its array of glitzy shops and tourist hustle, Hilo is your basic working-class American small town, except for its decidedly tropical atmosphere. A city with a day-old-bread store smack in the middle of its main street does not put on airs. Yes, Hilo has sprawl. Development, including a huge shopping center with a Wal-Mart, creeps inexorably up Highway 11. But at the city's old, slightly ramshackle, multiethnic core, the beat is slow. Pidgin, the local dialect, is widely spoken here. The Wiki Wiki market advertises "Poi -- We Always Get" in its front window. An arborist in the Puna district bills himself as "Da Puna Pruna." One of Hilo's most colorful and distinctive institutions, the Suisan fish auction on the waterfront at Banyan Drive and Lihiwai Street, was recently closed and doesn't expect to reopen. But visitors can still experience fresh-from-the-producers action at the daily farmers' market on Kamehameha Avenue, where flowers, tropical fruit and vegetables, smoked fish, local cheeses and even some livestock are for sale. We saw a baby goat sold for $50 and led away on a rope leash by a father who evidently intended it as a family pet. Old-town Hilo, between Ponahawai Street and Wailuku Drive, extending three blocks back from Hilo Bay, is an easy stroll. But a car is handy for attractions on the edge of town, notably Rainbow Falls and the Boiling Pots on the Wailuku River, and the tropical gardens that lie just beyond the city limits. One of Hilo's don't-miss attractions is its Pacific Tsunami Museum. Hilo was devastated by two deadly "tidal waves." In 1946, 91 people died and most of the city's business district, an entire residential area, its railroad and the royal fish ponds were destroyed. In 1960, a 35-foot swell, born of an earthquake off the coast of Chile, 6,000 miles away, killed 61 people and destroyed 537 buildings. The museum features awe-inspiring photographs of the damage created by the tsunamis and a video, with scenes from both, plus interviews with survivors. "We're overdue for another big one," said Nani Pierce, a museum docent and survivor of the 1960 disaster. Hilo figures to be better prepared next time, since the installation of a fine-tuned early-warning system, plus the creation of clearly marked evacuation routes leading to higher ground. "First there's a warning," Pierce said. "Then 'it's coming' and finally 'watch out, it's here.' " Another worthwhile attraction is the Lyman Mission House and Museum. Built in 1839 by Congregationalist missionaries, it is the oldest wood-frame building on the island of Hawaii, and it contains an impressive aggregation of furniture, household implements and artifacts from the period when the impact of newly arrived people of European ancestry was first being felt in the Hawaiian Islands. Dining in Hilo can be an adventure. And it can be cheap. At Cafe 100 on Kilauea Avenue, we filled up for $4 each on loco moco -- a cholesterolically lethal, but tasty, concoction of fried meat under a mountain of gravy-soaked rice, topped with a fried egg. Cafe 100 serves 17 kinds of loco moco, including the Super Loco, which includes Spam, linguica, kim chee, two fried eggs and a side order of macaroni-potato salad. Low International Food, which occupies the corner of Kilauea Avenue and Ponahawai Street and specializes in unusual breads -- mango, guava, taro, coconut -- also serves something called a gravy burger. Being fainthearted haole mainlanders, we passed. Banyan Drive, a 15-minute stroll or a short drive from downtown Hilo, is a destination in itself, with luxury hotels, Uncle Billy's lounge -- which has a nightly Hawaiian musical act -- a nine-hole golf course and one of the most delightful public spaces anywhere, the Liliuokalani Garden. Meticulously landscaped, clean as a pin and free, the Japanese-style garden is situated on the edge of Hilo Bay and has been constructed to permit tidal movement in the pools set among its walking paths and flowering shrubs. Fishing is permitted. The banyan, ironwood and palm trees throughout the garden resound with birdsong -- principally mynah birds, which, along with mongooses and feral cats, are a dominant wildlife species on the Big Island and the bane of indigenous fauna. There are swimming beaches near town, but better ones are 45 minutes away on the Puna Coast, southeast of Hilo. Among them is Alalanui Park, where we soaked in a terrific, sandy-bottomed thermal pool, protected from crashing surf by a breakwater -- a good thing to remember when the tsunami alarm goes off. If you go-- GETTING THERE: Hawaiian and Aloha airlines fly regularly to Hilo from Honolulu.-- WHERE TO STAY: We stayed at the Hilo Hawaiian, 71 Banyan Drive, Hilo, HI 96720; phone, (800) 367-5004; Web, www.castleresorts.com . We got the Internet rate of $119 a night for an ocean-view room. Official rates are $149 for an ocean view, $183-$277 for suites, $119 for a garden view. We also stayed at the Dolphin Bay Hotel, 333 Iliahi St., Hilo, HI, 96720; (808) 935-1466; www.dolphinbayhotel.com . $72 a night for a standard double, which includes a kitchen; $99, for two-bedroom doubles. Shipman House B&B, 131 Kaiulani St., Hilo, 96720; (800) 627-8447; e-mail, inn keeper@hilo-hawaii.com ; Web, www.hilo-hawaii.com . This elegant "old Hawaii" landmark, built in 1800, is set on 5 exquisitely landscaped acres on a ridge above the city. It's worth a visit even if you don't stay there. Doubles, $145-$175 a night. Wild Ginger Inn, 100 Puueo St., Hilo, HI 96720; (877) 212-8276, www.wildgingerinn.com . Twenty-seven rooms within walking distance of downtown. Private rooms $45-$69, but the inn offers "shared accommodation" for four to six people per room at $15 apiece.-- WHERE TO EAT: Seaside Restaurant, 1790 Kalaniaole Ave.; (808) 935-8825. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 5-8:30 p.m. Reservations recommended. A terrific restaurant -- not much on decor, but splendid seafood raised in the owner's ponds in the backyard lagoon. Dinner for two with wine, about $60.-- WHAT TO DO: Pacific Tsunami Museum, 130 Kamehameha Ave., (808) 935-0926; www.tsunami.org . Adults, $5; students, $2; children under 5, free. Open Monday to Saturday, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Lyman Mission House and Museum, 276 Haili St.; (808) 935-5021, www.lymanmuseum.org . Open Monday to Saturday, 9 a.m.-4:30 p.m.-- FOR MORE INFORMATION: Big Island Visitors Bureau, 250 Keawe St., Hilo, HI 96720; (808) 886-1655, www.bigisland.org . Eric Brazil recently retired as a reporter for The Chronicle. Page C - 14 Get up to 50% off home delivery of the Chronicle for 12 weeks! EARLY SPRING PATIO FURNITURE SALE Order now at fantastic savings for Spring delivery Allegro Classics Bay Area Donate a car to Habitat for Humanity Your car donation helps build homes for families in need. 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Starting January 19th Life Insurance By Phone.com Place an OnSale ad About OnSale View All OnSale Ads Back To Top San Francisco Chronicle Sections Style Sports Bay Area Travel Real Estate Insight Business Book Reviews At Work Commentary News Sunday Datebook ©2006 San Francisco Chronicle | Privacy Policy | Feedback | RSS Feeds | FAQ | Site Index | Contact Hawaiian Quilting Journey: WeekMokihana’s Garden » Blog Archive » Mokihana’s Hawaiian Quilting Journey: Week Two Mokihana’s Garden A Mānoa Valley Wahine Writes of Past and Present « Mokihana’s Hawaiian Quilting Journey: Week One Mokihana’s Hawaiian Quilting Journey: Class! » Mokihana’s Hawaiian Quilting Journey: Week Two I thought I’d come out the winner this week. And I did, sorta. Eventually. I got my new fabric all washed and ready and started cutting. Unfortunately, I musta been half asleep at the time, because I cut it wrong and had to go back to the fabric store yet again! Sheesh! Fabric 6, Mokihana O. However, the next day I was much more successful, and got my applique piece all properly cut out - Mokihana 1, Fabric 6. The following day I cut out my background piece - Mokihana 2, Fabric 6 (I’m catching up!). I carefully unfolded my green ulu applique piece and voila! There it was, waiting for me to baste it onto the background fabric. I think I should get a point for that. K’den. Mokihana 3 - Fabric 6. Then, the next day of quiet basting with my friend, I got the whole pattern basted onto the background! Pau! Mokihana 4, Fabric 6. Now I am ready to start appliqueing the pattern to the background. And I fully expect to have my score keep climbing! This is turning out to be a very rewarding project for me. I feel very spiritually connected to it, feeling a real connection to Hawaiian women years and years before me designing and quilting their own works of art. I couldn’t make it out to The Gathering this week. I was buried with work and a very large truck with a cherry picker and shredder attached to it was parked in my long, narrow driveway while a crew from Portland General Electric trimmed branches from the firs, maples, alders and willows away from the power lines. I was very disappointed that I couldn’t get out; it would have been a lovely day. However, there is next week. And I have a quilt square ready to be appliqued. The colors are just what I wanted and I feel so good about starting this. It is a song to me, and I am loving the singing of it. This entry was posted on Thursday, July 17th, 2003 at 8:52 amand is filed under Hawaiian Quilting .You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response , or trackback from your own site. 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