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All Rights Reserved. All titles, logos and trademarks are property of their respective owners. Hawaiian City GardenCharming, blue-collar Hilo is the unsung Hawaii SFGate Home Business Sports Entertainment Travel Jobs Real Estate Autos SFGate News Web by Charming, blue-collar Hilo is the unsung Hawaii Eric Brazil, Special to The Chronicle Sunday, August 25, 2002 now part of stylesheet -- Printable Version Email This Article Hilo, Hawaii --Because Hilo gets 130 inches of rain a year, lacks white-sand beaches and has a history of being clobbered by tsunamis, tourists tend to bypass Hawaii's second-biggest city. Big mistake. Hilo, the county seat of the Big Island, with a population of 47,000, has authentic South Seas charm, a vibrant local culture, a rich history and some of the grandest sights anywhere on the planet. Located on the windward side of the island, Hilo has taken a backseat as a tourist destination to the Kailua area on the Kona Coast, with its dry climate and reliable sunshine, luxury hotels, world-class sportfishing and famous coffee. Hilo's physical setting is spectacular, with false-fronted, early 20th century downtown buildings curving along Kamehameha Avenue around palm-lined Hilo Bay, and 13,796-foot Mauna Kea -- snow-crowned in winter -- rising majestically in the background. The city's tropical gardens are perpetually abloom with orchids, ginger and anthurium, and its orchards are heavy with avocados, bananas, guava and macadamia nuts. Just up the road, the active volcano Kilauea steams and smokes and sends molten lava streams snaking seaward. Unlike Honolulu, which is beset by many of the mainland's intractable big-city problems, or Kailua-Kona, with its array of glitzy shops and tourist hustle, Hilo is your basic working-class American small town, except for its decidedly tropical atmosphere. A city with a day-old-bread store smack in the middle of its main street does not put on airs. Yes, Hilo has sprawl. Development, including a huge shopping center with a Wal-Mart, creeps inexorably up Highway 11. But at the city's old, slightly ramshackle, multiethnic core, the beat is slow. Pidgin, the local dialect, is widely spoken here. The Wiki Wiki market advertises "Poi -- We Always Get" in its front window. An arborist in the Puna district bills himself as "Da Puna Pruna." One of Hilo's most colorful and distinctive institutions, the Suisan fish auction on the waterfront at Banyan Drive and Lihiwai Street, was recently closed and doesn't expect to reopen. But visitors can still experience fresh-from-the-producers action at the daily farmers' market on Kamehameha Avenue, where flowers, tropical fruit and vegetables, smoked fish, local cheeses and even some livestock are for sale. We saw a baby goat sold for $50 and led away on a rope leash by a father who evidently intended it as a family pet. Old-town Hilo, between Ponahawai Street and Wailuku Drive, extending three blocks back from Hilo Bay, is an easy stroll. But a car is handy for attractions on the edge of town, notably Rainbow Falls and the Boiling Pots on the Wailuku River, and the tropical gardens that lie just beyond the city limits. One of Hilo's don't-miss attractions is its Pacific Tsunami Museum. Hilo was devastated by two deadly "tidal waves." In 1946, 91 people died and most of the city's business district, an entire residential area, its railroad and the royal fish ponds were destroyed. In 1960, a 35-foot swell, born of an earthquake off the coast of Chile, 6,000 miles away, killed 61 people and destroyed 537 buildings. The museum features awe-inspiring photographs of the damage created by the tsunamis and a video, with scenes from both, plus interviews with survivors. "We're overdue for another big one," said Nani Pierce, a museum docent and survivor of the 1960 disaster. Hilo figures to be better prepared next time, since the installation of a fine-tuned early-warning system, plus the creation of clearly marked evacuation routes leading to higher ground. "First there's a warning," Pierce said. "Then 'it's coming' and finally 'watch out, it's here.' " Another worthwhile attraction is the Lyman Mission House and Museum. Built in 1839 by Congregationalist missionaries, it is the oldest wood-frame building on the island of Hawaii, and it contains an impressive aggregation of furniture, household implements and artifacts from the period when the impact of newly arrived people of European ancestry was first being felt in the Hawaiian Islands. Dining in Hilo can be an adventure. And it can be cheap. At Cafe 100 on Kilauea Avenue, we filled up for $4 each on loco moco -- a cholesterolically lethal, but tasty, concoction of fried meat under a mountain of gravy-soaked rice, topped with a fried egg. Cafe 100 serves 17 kinds of loco moco, including the Super Loco, which includes Spam, linguica, kim chee, two fried eggs and a side order of macaroni-potato salad. Low International Food, which occupies the corner of Kilauea Avenue and Ponahawai Street and specializes in unusual breads -- mango, guava, taro, coconut -- also serves something called a gravy burger. Being fainthearted haole mainlanders, we passed. Banyan Drive, a 15-minute stroll or a short drive from downtown Hilo, is a destination in itself, with luxury hotels, Uncle Billy's lounge -- which has a nightly Hawaiian musical act -- a nine-hole golf course and one of the most delightful public spaces anywhere, the Liliuokalani Garden. Meticulously landscaped, clean as a pin and free, the Japanese-style garden is situated on the edge of Hilo Bay and has been constructed to permit tidal movement in the pools set among its walking paths and flowering shrubs. Fishing is permitted. The banyan, ironwood and palm trees throughout the garden resound with birdsong -- principally mynah birds, which, along with mongooses and feral cats, are a dominant wildlife species on the Big Island and the bane of indigenous fauna. There are swimming beaches near town, but better ones are 45 minutes away on the Puna Coast, southeast of Hilo. Among them is Alalanui Park, where we soaked in a terrific, sandy-bottomed thermal pool, protected from crashing surf by a breakwater -- a good thing to remember when the tsunami alarm goes off. If you go-- GETTING THERE: Hawaiian and Aloha airlines fly regularly to Hilo from Honolulu.-- WHERE TO STAY: We stayed at the Hilo Hawaiian, 71 Banyan Drive, Hilo, HI 96720; phone, (800) 367-5004; Web, www.castleresorts.com . We got the Internet rate of $119 a night for an ocean-view room. Official rates are $149 for an ocean view, $183-$277 for suites, $119 for a garden view. We also stayed at the Dolphin Bay Hotel, 333 Iliahi St., Hilo, HI, 96720; (808) 935-1466; www.dolphinbayhotel.com . $72 a night for a standard double, which includes a kitchen; $99, for two-bedroom doubles. Shipman House B&B, 131 Kaiulani St., Hilo, 96720; (800) 627-8447; e-mail, inn keeper@hilo-hawaii.com ; Web, www.hilo-hawaii.com . This elegant "old Hawaii" landmark, built in 1800, is set on 5 exquisitely landscaped acres on a ridge above the city. It's worth a visit even if you don't stay there. Doubles, $145-$175 a night. Wild Ginger Inn, 100 Puueo St., Hilo, HI 96720; (877) 212-8276, www.wildgingerinn.com . Twenty-seven rooms within walking distance of downtown. Private rooms $45-$69, but the inn offers "shared accommodation" for four to six people per room at $15 apiece.-- WHERE TO EAT: Seaside Restaurant, 1790 Kalaniaole Ave.; (808) 935-8825. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 5-8:30 p.m. Reservations recommended. A terrific restaurant -- not much on decor, but splendid seafood raised in the owner's ponds in the backyard lagoon. Dinner for two with wine, about $60.-- WHAT TO DO: Pacific Tsunami Museum, 130 Kamehameha Ave., (808) 935-0926; www.tsunami.org . Adults, $5; students, $2; children under 5, free. Open Monday to Saturday, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Lyman Mission House and Museum, 276 Haili St.; (808) 935-5021, www.lymanmuseum.org . Open Monday to Saturday, 9 a.m.-4:30 p.m.-- FOR MORE INFORMATION: Big Island Visitors Bureau, 250 Keawe St., Hilo, HI 96720; (808) 886-1655, www.bigisland.org . Eric Brazil recently retired as a reporter for The Chronicle. Page C - 14 Get up to 50% off home delivery of the Chronicle for 12 weeks! EARLY SPRING PATIO FURNITURE SALE Order now at fantastic savings for Spring delivery Allegro Classics Bay Area Donate a car to Habitat for Humanity Your car donation helps build homes for families in need. Habitat for Humanity Cars for Homes Bay Area 7 Chefs in 7 Days Montana's Last Best Culinary Festival March 19-26, 2006 The Resort at Paws UpGreenough, Montana 1,000 Businesses For Sale By Owner Motels-Golf CoursesResorts-Retail Stores-Mfg & Land Hurry for best selecton Pin.CA - Property Investment Network Been Thinking About Life Insurance? 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Hawaii Hotels Flights toHawaii Hotel Deals - Unbiased Reviews - TripAdvisor Hawaii Hotel Deals and TripAdvisor SmartDeals Sign in • Sign up Home > United States > Hawaii > SmartDeals Hawaii tourism: Overview Hotels Flights Attractions Dining Deals Forums Maps, etc. Discount hotels | Hotel + air deals | All travel offers Search (e.g., Boston hotels, Las Vegas, Paris art museum) Hawaii Hawaii Overview Hawaii Hotels Flights to Hawaii Hawaii Deals Discount hotels Hotel + air deals All travel offers Hawaii Attractions Hawaii Restaurants Hawaii Forums Hawaii Maps Hawaii Discount Hotels Hawaii Vacation Packages e-mail this page to a friend Popular hotel deals Acapulco hotel deals Alaska hotel deals Amsterdam hotel deals Anaheim hotel deals Arizona hotel deals Aruba hotel deals Aspen hotel deals Atlanta hotel deals Atlantic City hotel deals Bahamas hotel deals Barbados hotel deals Belgium hotel deals Bermuda hotel deals Boston hotel deals Branson hotel deals Breckenridge hotel deals British Virgin Islands hotel deals Cabo San Lucas hotel deals California hotel deals Canada hotel deals Cancun hotel deals Caribbean hotel deals Colorado hotel deals Costa del Sol hotel deals Cozumel hotel deals Dallas hotel deals Daytona Beach hotel deals Dominican Republic hotel deals Florida hotel deals Florida Keys hotel deals Fort Lauderdale hotel deals France hotel deals Germany hotel deals Grand Canyon National Park hotel deals Greece hotel deals Grenada hotel deals Hawaii hotel deals Hilton Head hotel deals Ibiza hotel deals Ireland hotel deals Italy hotel deals Ixtapa hotel deals Jamaica hotel deals Kauai hotel deals Key West hotel deals Lake Placid hotel deals Lake Tahoe hotel deals Las Vegas hotel deals London hotel deals Los Angeles hotel deals Los Cabos hotel deals Maui hotel deals Mazatlan hotel deals Melbourne hotel deals Mexico hotel deals Miami hotel deals Montreal hotel deals Myrtle Beach hotel deals Nashville hotel deals Nassau hotel deals New York hotel deals New York City hotel deals Niagara Falls hotel deals Nova Scotia hotel deals Oahu hotel deals Orlando hotel deals Paris hotel deals Park City hotel deals Philadelphia hotel deals Phoenix hotel deals Pigeon Forge hotel deals Puerto Rico hotel deals Puerto Vallarta hotel deals Punta Cana hotel deals Quebec City hotel deals Reno hotel deals Rome hotel deals Salt Lake City hotel deals San Antonio hotel deals San Diego hotel deals San Francisco hotel deals Santa Fe hotel deals Scotland hotel deals Seattle hotel deals Spain hotel deals St. Croix hotel deals St. Lucia hotel deals St. Maarten/St. Martin hotel deals St. Thomas hotel deals Sydney hotel deals Texas hotel deals Toronto hotel deals Tucson hotel deals U.S. Virgin Islands hotel deals Vail hotel deals Virginia Beach hotel deals Washington DC hotel deals Whistler hotel deals Read more Hawaii tourism Hawaii Hotel Deals and TripAdvisor SmartDeals Paradise may indeed be found on the shores of the six naturally magnificent islands of Hawaii. 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TripAdvisor's Tourism page has the web's best articles on Hawaii travel . Our Hawaii hotels page presents hotels ranked by popularity - read traveler reviews and guidebooks. Looking for things to do in Hawaii? Try our Attractions page! TripAdvisor's Hawaii restaurants page shows you the best local places to dine. Visit our Hawaii forums page to ask questions and get advice about Hawaii travel. TripAdvisor forums let you ask questions and get advice - post in our Hawaii forums . Our Maps, etc. page has maps and other travel information. Visit our Hawaii discount hotels page for great savings on Hawaii hotels, including TripAdvisor SmartDeals. Looking for vacation packages to Hawaii? We've got deals including hotel and airfare. Book a flight to Hawaii on our Flights page. To view all the specials, vacation packages, and other travel offers we've found, visit our All travel offers page. About TripAdvisor Visit TripAdvisor for the very best deals on the most popular hotels in Hawaii. Recommendations for hotels, resorts, inns, vacations, travel packages, travel guides and lots more! Visit TripAdvisor's international sites: About Us | Membership | Site Map | Become an Affiliate | Top Cities | Hotel Reservations | Hotel Deals | TripAdvisor Gear Popular Hotels: 1 , 2 , 3 , 4 , 5 , 6 , 7 , 8 , 9 , 10 , 11 , 12 , 13 , 14 , 15 , 16 , 17 , 18 , 19 , 20 , by city TripAdvisor Recommends: Las Vegas hotels , London hotels , Paris hotels , Rome hotels , New York City hotels , Chicago hotels , Orlando hotels © 2005 TripAdvisor, Inc. All rights reserved. TripAdvisor Terms of Use and Privacy Policy . * TripAdvisor, Inc. is not a booking agent and does not charge any service fees to users of our site... ( more ) TripAdvisor, Inc. is not responsible for content on external web sites. Molokai. Kamakou in theMolokai, Hawaii - History and Culture on The Most Hawaiian Island. One and a half million years ago (give or take a week) two large volcanoes pushed through the surface of the Pacific Ocean and created the island of Molokai. Kamakou in the east, and Maunaloa in the west. A couple days later a third and much smaller caldera, Kauhako, popped up to form the Makanalua peninsula on the north side. Over eons, the north side of the island eroded and fell into the sea, leaving behind the vertical sea cliffs which today make up most of Molokai's spectacular North Shore. It's the fifth largest island in the Hawaiian archipelago; 260 square miles (420 sq km) in area, 38 miles (61km) long, and ten miles (16km) wide at its widest point. Anchored in the center of the 8 major islands, Molokai is 25 miles (40km) southeast of Oahu, and a 25-minute flight from Maui. From the eastern end of the island, it's only 8 miles (13km) across the Pailolo Channel to Maui. The population is estimated at 8,000 residents, half of whom live in or near the principal town of Kaunakakai. Nearly 40% are of Hawaiian descent, thus the nick name, "The Most Hawaiian Island." According to the experts, Hawaiians first came to live on Molokai about 650 A.D. Those first settlers most likely originated from the Marquesas, with later migrations, in double hulled canoes, from Tahiti and other areas in the South Pacific. As the Hawaiians had no written language, most of their pre-contact history has come from chants, passed down from generation to generation, which have kept a chronology of events, battles and genealogy. In November, 1778, Captain James Cook sighted Molokai on his first visit to the Sandwich Islands, as he named these islands, but it wasn't until 1786 when Captain George Dixon anchored off Molokai's coast, that Europeans first visited this island. In 1832 a Protestant mission was established at Kalua'aha on the East End by Reverend Harvey Hitchcock, to serve an estimated population of 5,000. His church has not been maintained, but the walls and part of the roof stand today at the 14.5 mile marker. A white marble headstone marks his grave on the hill east of what remains of the church. The oldest known Hawaiian settlement on Molokai occurred in Halawa Valley, at the eastern end of the main highway that crosses the length of the island. The eastern side of the island was heavily populated in pre-contact Hawaii, a result of ample water from the mountains, fertile and level land for farming, and a rich and abundant ocean. More than 60 fish ponds were built along the south shore of Molokai. Most have nearly disappeared, but a few have been reconstructed and are used daily by residents for aquiculture. A drive along the southshore of the island bears testimony to the reliance on the ocean by early Hawaiians. Molokai was renowned for the wisdom and power of its religious leaders, greatly respected and often feared by others in the archipelago. In the 1500s, the famous prophet, Lanikaula, was so revered that pilgrims came from all the Islands to seek his wisdom and advice. Molokai became a place of retreat, protected from war by its religious prestige and the marital alliances of its chiefs. Others were reputed for sorcery. Legend tells of the Kalaipahoa, or poisonwood gods, entering trees on Maunaloa. The grove is said to have been so poisonous that birds fell dead as they flew over it. Legend also tells us that Laka, goddess of the hula, gave birth to the dance on Molokai, at a very sacred place in Ka'ana. This is recognized on Molokai every May, at a celebration of the birth of hula, called Ka Hula Piko. When Laka died, her remains were secretly hidden somewhere beneath the hill, Pu'u Nana. The hula was finally established, the work of Laka was complete, and the dance flourishedthroughout Hawaii. Molokai was praised as "Molokai Ka Hula Piko," Molokai, the center of the dance. This design, by John Kaimikaua and Wainwright Piena, uses traditional Hawaiian motifs to depict the essence of the saying, "Molokai Ka Hula Piko." To the early Hawaiians the mo'o (lizards) were a symbol of spirituality and good fortune. The central design depicts this spiritual continuity with the mo'o arranged in a circle. The triangle depicts a Hawaiian value called "Lokahi," which is symbolic of a balance between man, nature, and God. Petroglyphs within the triangle portray a man and woman in dance. In the uppermost part of the triangle is a rising sun with a dot in the center symbolizing the piko of the hula. Beneath the circle is a motif depicting water, while at the top, the triangles represent fire. In the real world, water and fire are the two elements that cannot be mixed, but the spiritual essence of these elements mix in the hula. The ancient kumu hula of Molokai stressed to their students that they should dance with the fluidity of water and with the spark of fire. The middle row of diamonds, is a design called by the Hawaiians "na maka ke akua," or "eyes ofthe gods." Eyes are symbolic of the past, because our ancestors look upon us and guide us in thislife. Eyes also represent the living, as we look back upon the paths of our ancestors for inspirationand guidance. The hula provides a means for us to look back to the works of our ancestors through its movements, motions and chants. Above the "na maka ke akua" design are ferns representing the greenery worn by the dancers and below is the half-circle-point motif representing the rays of the sun rising in the east. To the early Hawaiians, the rising sun was symbolic of constant renewal and rebirth in the hula. 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