Hawaiian City Garden

Charming, blue-collar Hilo is the unsung Hawaii SFGate Home Business Sports Entertainment Travel Jobs Real Estate Autos SFGate News Web by Charming, blue-collar Hilo is the unsung Hawaii Eric Brazil, Special to The Chronicle Sunday, August 25, 2002 now part of stylesheet -- Printable Version Email This Article Hilo, Hawaii --Because Hilo gets 130 inches of rain a year, lacks white-sand beaches and has a history of being clobbered by tsunamis, tourists tend to bypass Hawaii's second-biggest city. Big mistake. Hilo, the county seat of the Big Island, with a population of 47,000, has authentic South Seas charm, a vibrant local culture, a rich history and some of the grandest sights anywhere on the planet. Located on the windward side of the island, Hilo has taken a backseat as a tourist destination to the Kailua area on the Kona Coast, with its dry climate and reliable sunshine, luxury hotels, world-class sportfishing and famous coffee. Hilo's physical setting is spectacular, with false-fronted, early 20th century downtown buildings curving along Kamehameha Avenue around palm-lined Hilo Bay, and 13,796-foot Mauna Kea -- snow-crowned in winter -- rising majestically in the background. The city's tropical gardens are perpetually abloom with orchids, ginger and anthurium, and its orchards are heavy with avocados, bananas, guava and macadamia nuts. Just up the road, the active volcano Kilauea steams and smokes and sends molten lava streams snaking seaward. Unlike Honolulu, which is beset by many of the mainland's intractable big-city problems, or Kailua-Kona, with its array of glitzy shops and tourist hustle, Hilo is your basic working-class American small town, except for its decidedly tropical atmosphere. A city with a day-old-bread store smack in the middle of its main street does not put on airs. Yes, Hilo has sprawl. Development, including a huge shopping center with a Wal-Mart, creeps inexorably up Highway 11. But at the city's old, slightly ramshackle, multiethnic core, the beat is slow. Pidgin, the local dialect, is widely spoken here. The Wiki Wiki market advertises "Poi -- We Always Get" in its front window. An arborist in the Puna district bills himself as "Da Puna Pruna." One of Hilo's most colorful and distinctive institutions, the Suisan fish auction on the waterfront at Banyan Drive and Lihiwai Street, was recently closed and doesn't expect to reopen. But visitors can still experience fresh-from-the-producers action at the daily farmers' market on Kamehameha Avenue, where flowers, tropical fruit and vegetables, smoked fish, local cheeses and even some livestock are for sale. We saw a baby goat sold for $50 and led away on a rope leash by a father who evidently intended it as a family pet. Old-town Hilo, between Ponahawai Street and Wailuku Drive, extending three blocks back from Hilo Bay, is an easy stroll. But a car is handy for attractions on the edge of town, notably Rainbow Falls and the Boiling Pots on the Wailuku River, and the tropical gardens that lie just beyond the city limits. One of Hilo's don't-miss attractions is its Pacific Tsunami Museum. Hilo was devastated by two deadly "tidal waves." In 1946, 91 people died and most of the city's business district, an entire residential area, its railroad and the royal fish ponds were destroyed. In 1960, a 35-foot swell, born of an earthquake off the coast of Chile, 6,000 miles away, killed 61 people and destroyed 537 buildings. The museum features awe-inspiring photographs of the damage created by the tsunamis and a video, with scenes from both, plus interviews with survivors. "We're overdue for another big one," said Nani Pierce, a museum docent and survivor of the 1960 disaster. Hilo figures to be better prepared next time, since the installation of a fine-tuned early-warning system, plus the creation of clearly marked evacuation routes leading to higher ground. "First there's a warning," Pierce said. "Then 'it's coming' and finally 'watch out, it's here.' " Another worthwhile attraction is the Lyman Mission House and Museum. Built in 1839 by Congregationalist missionaries, it is the oldest wood-frame building on the island of Hawaii, and it contains an impressive aggregation of furniture, household implements and artifacts from the period when the impact of newly arrived people of European ancestry was first being felt in the Hawaiian Islands. Dining in Hilo can be an adventure. And it can be cheap. At Cafe 100 on Kilauea Avenue, we filled up for $4 each on loco moco -- a cholesterolically lethal, but tasty, concoction of fried meat under a mountain of gravy-soaked rice, topped with a fried egg. Cafe 100 serves 17 kinds of loco moco, including the Super Loco, which includes Spam, linguica, kim chee, two fried eggs and a side order of macaroni-potato salad. Low International Food, which occupies the corner of Kilauea Avenue and Ponahawai Street and specializes in unusual breads -- mango, guava, taro, coconut -- also serves something called a gravy burger. Being fainthearted haole mainlanders, we passed. Banyan Drive, a 15-minute stroll or a short drive from downtown Hilo, is a destination in itself, with luxury hotels, Uncle Billy's lounge -- which has a nightly Hawaiian musical act -- a nine-hole golf course and one of the most delightful public spaces anywhere, the Liliuokalani Garden. Meticulously landscaped, clean as a pin and free, the Japanese-style garden is situated on the edge of Hilo Bay and has been constructed to permit tidal movement in the pools set among its walking paths and flowering shrubs. Fishing is permitted. The banyan, ironwood and palm trees throughout the garden resound with birdsong -- principally mynah birds, which, along with mongooses and feral cats, are a dominant wildlife species on the Big Island and the bane of indigenous fauna. There are swimming beaches near town, but better ones are 45 minutes away on the Puna Coast, southeast of Hilo. Among them is Alalanui Park, where we soaked in a terrific, sandy-bottomed thermal pool, protected from crashing surf by a breakwater -- a good thing to remember when the tsunami alarm goes off. If you go-- GETTING THERE: Hawaiian and Aloha airlines fly regularly to Hilo from Honolulu.-- WHERE TO STAY: We stayed at the Hilo Hawaiian, 71 Banyan Drive, Hilo, HI 96720; phone, (800) 367-5004; Web, www.castleresorts.com . We got the Internet rate of $119 a night for an ocean-view room. Official rates are $149 for an ocean view, $183-$277 for suites, $119 for a garden view. We also stayed at the Dolphin Bay Hotel, 333 Iliahi St., Hilo, HI, 96720; (808) 935-1466; www.dolphinbayhotel.com . $72 a night for a standard double, which includes a kitchen; $99, for two-bedroom doubles. Shipman House B&B, 131 Kaiulani St., Hilo, 96720; (800) 627-8447; e-mail, inn keeper@hilo-hawaii.com ; Web, www.hilo-hawaii.com . This elegant "old Hawaii" landmark, built in 1800, is set on 5 exquisitely landscaped acres on a ridge above the city. It's worth a visit even if you don't stay there. Doubles, $145-$175 a night. Wild Ginger Inn, 100 Puueo St., Hilo, HI 96720; (877) 212-8276, www.wildgingerinn.com . Twenty-seven rooms within walking distance of downtown. Private rooms $45-$69, but the inn offers "shared accommodation" for four to six people per room at $15 apiece.-- WHERE TO EAT: Seaside Restaurant, 1790 Kalaniaole Ave.; (808) 935-8825. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 5-8:30 p.m. Reservations recommended. A terrific restaurant -- not much on decor, but splendid seafood raised in the owner's ponds in the backyard lagoon. Dinner for two with wine, about $60.-- WHAT TO DO: Pacific Tsunami Museum, 130 Kamehameha Ave., (808) 935-0926; www.tsunami.org . Adults, $5; students, $2; children under 5, free. Open Monday to Saturday, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Lyman Mission House and Museum, 276 Haili St.; (808) 935-5021, www.lymanmuseum.org . Open Monday to Saturday, 9 a.m.-4:30 p.m.-- FOR MORE INFORMATION: Big Island Visitors Bureau, 250 Keawe St., Hilo, HI 96720; (808) 886-1655, www.bigisland.org . Eric Brazil recently retired as a reporter for The Chronicle. Page C - 14 Get up to 50% off home delivery of the Chronicle for 12 weeks! EARLY SPRING PATIO FURNITURE SALE Order now at fantastic savings for Spring delivery Allegro Classics Bay Area Donate a car to Habitat for Humanity Your car donation helps build homes for families in need. 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Maui Honeymoon Planner, the best honeymoon packages on Maui Hawaii weddings and Hawaii honeymoons begin here. Home Kauai Oahu Maui Big Island Quick Search: Choose a Category B&B/Rentals Bicycle Tours Boat Catering Dining Diving Event Venues Florists Gifts/Apparel Golf Helicopter (air tours) Hotels/Resorts Land Activities Luau Photo/Video Shopping Spa's Theatre/Entertainment Theme Parties Transportation Walking Tours/Gardens Water Activities Wedding Coordinators Choose an Island All Islands Hawaii Kauai Maui Oahu Home :: Maui Honeymoon Packages Preview Hawaii Wedding Planner The consummate tool for planning a flawless destination Hawaii wedding. Hot Dates/Hot Rates Press Releases Planning Tips Current Newsletter Hawaii Weddings Hawaii Honeymoons Get Preview Hawaii newsletter Maui Honeymoon Packages Thank you for your interest in Preview Hawaii to plan your Maui honeymoon. Maui is called the "Valley Isle", and is the second largest island in the Hawaiian Island Chain. 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Hawaiian Food Glossary )

Hawaiian Restaurants - Big Island Restaurants Big Island Printer Friendly Version A Word About "Symbols and Awards" Help us preserve the Islands. Tell our advertisers you found them on Alternative-Hawaii. HAWAIIAN (see Hawaiian Food Glossary ) Hawaiian Cuisine Types Hawaii Regional Cuisine: Local food beautifully presented by professional chefs using the freshest Hawaiian ingredients. Local Kine Grinds: An ethnic mix of local-style comfort food. HAWAII REGIONAL CUISINE | LOCAL KINE GRINDS HAWAII REGIONAL CUISINE SPONSOR BAMBOO RESTAURANT Hwy 270 & Hwy 250 Hawi, HI 96719 (North Kohala District) Mailing address: P. O. Box 1463, Kapaau, HI 96755 Tel. (808) 889-5555 Fax (808) 889-6152 Email: bamrest@interpac.net Voted "Best Restaurant on the Big Island" by the Hawaii Island Journal and recipient of the prestigious Hale Aina Award in 2004. Bamboo features creative fresh island-style Hawaiian Regional Cuisine in a historic, flower filled tropical dining room. (LD $$) Photo FRIENDS HUALALAI GRILLE BY ALAN WONG Four Seasons Resort Hualalai Kaupulehu, HI 96745 (North Kona District) Tel. (808) 325-8525 Not a Grill at all! Offers the best in Hawaii Regional Cuisine - a unique blend of Eastern and Western styles using locally grown and raised ingredients, with creative new approaches to familiar dishes. (LD $$$) MERRIMAN'S 65-1227 Opelo Road Waimea, HI 96743 (South Kohala District) Tel. (88) 885-6822 Home of Hawaii Regional Cuisine by a nationally renowned chef - pursuing the best, the freshest and the most varied local ingredients. The flavors here are always fresh and pure. 2002, 2003 & 2004 Ilima Award. 2004 & 2005 Hale Aina Award. (LD $$$) MERRIMAN'S MARKET CAFE King's Shops 250 Waikoloa Beach Drive Waikoloa, HI 96738 (South Kohala District) Tel. (808) 886-1700 Famous Hawaii Regional Cuisine, with an added Mediterranean twist. (LD $$) Top LOCAL KINE GRINDS ALOHA ANGEL CAFE Aloha Theatre & Performing Arts Center 79-7384 Mamalahoa Hwy Kainaliu, HI 96750 (South Kona District) Tel. (808) 322-3383 Featured in Food and Wine, Bon Appetit, and Gourmet Magazine. An eclectic menu featuring Island ingredients. The Aloha Angel bakery prepares their pastries, cakes and cookies daily. (BLD $) BIG ISLAND GRILL 75-5702 Kuakini Hwy Kailua-Kona, HI 96740 (North Kona District) Tel. (808) 326-1153 Where the locals go when they want great food at reasonable prices. Attentive service in a family diner style atmosphere. (BLD $) BLANES DOWNTOWN 217 Waianuenue Avenue Hilo, HI 96720 (Hilo District) Tel. (808) 969-9494 One of the Big Island's best drive inn's. Home of the famous boneless chicken. (BLD $) CAFE 100 969 Kilauea Avenue Hilo, HI 96720 (Hilo District) Tel. (808) 935-8683 Originators of Loco Moco! 50 years of home-style cooking - a Hilo institution! (BLD $) DON'S GRILL 485 Hinano Street Hilo, HI 96720 (Hilo District) Tel. (808) 935-9099 Rated one of the best on the Big Island for family dining. Extensive menu. House specialty - rotisseried chicken. (LD $) JACKIE REY'S OHANA GRILL Pottery Terrace Center 75-5995 Kuakini Highway Kailua-Kona, HI 96740 (North Kona District) Tel. (808) 327-0209 Part sports bar, part family restaurant. Eclectic range of cuisine. (LD $$) JIMMY'S DRIVE INN 362 Kinoole Street Hilo, HI 96720 (Hilo District) Tel. (808) 935-5571 No drive-in service, despite the name. The menu is a mosaic of Korean, Hawaiian, Japanese, and American dishes - a true mixed plate! (LD $) KONA MIX PLATE 75-5660 Kopiko Street, (Kopiko Plaza) Kailua-Kona, HI 96740 (North Kona District) Tel. (808) 329-8104 Some of the best local food in Kona - mix of Japanese and Korean. (LD $) KOZMIC CONES 317 Waianuenue Avenue Hilo, HI 96720 (Downtown Hilo) Tel. (808) 935-6311 Bentos, local plate lunches, ice cream treats. (BLD $) K'S DRIVE IN 194 Hualalai Street Hilo, HI 96720 (Hilo District) Tel. (808) 935-5573 Ono variety of local foods. (BLD $) KUHIO GRILL 111E Puainako (Prince Kuhio Plaza) Hilo, HI 96720 (Hilo District) Tel. (808) 959-2336 Home of the famous one pound laulau! (BLD $) MANAGO HOTEL RESTAURANT Highway 11 Captain Cook, HI 96704 (South Kona District) Tel. (808) 323-2642 Highly rated local style food. (BLD $) NANI MAU GARDEN 421 Makalika Street Hilo, HI 96720 (Hilo District) Tel. (808) 959-3500 Located in a floral/botanical garden. Featuring local-style regional foods. (L $$) NORI'S SAIMIN AND SNACKS 688 Kinoole Street Hilo, HI 96720 (Hilo District) Tel. (808) 935-9133 Serving Hawaii's traditional noodle soup and local style nibbles. (LD $) O'S BISTRO 75-1027 Henry Street Kailua-Kona, HI 96740 (North Kona District) Tel. (808) 327-6565 Try their vegetarian pasta, saimin, or seared ahi salad. (BLD $$) RESTAURANT OSAKA 762 Kanoelehua Avenue Hilo, HI 96720 (Hilo District) Tel. (808) 961-6699 Local style, Japanese & American family dining. (BLD $) SANDY'S DRIVE INN 79-7936 Mamalahoa Highway Kainalui, HI 96739 (South Kona District) Tel. (808) 322-2161 All the local favorites - from Loco Moco to Spam Musabi. (BLD $) SEASIDE RESTAURANT 1790 Kalanianaole Highway Hilo, HI 96720 (Hilo District) Tel. (808) 935-8825 An 80-plus-years old local institution known for fish - there is a fishpond in their backyard. Fantastic taro bread pudding with warm haupia sauce. (D $) SUNLIGHT CAFE Hilo Shopping Center 66 Kekuanaoa Hilo, HI 96720 (Hilo District) Tel. (808) 934-8833 Combination of western and eastern food. (BLD $) SUPER J's 83-5409 Mamalahoa Highway Honaunau, HI 96704 (South Kona District) Tel. (808) 328-9566 Hawaiian food takeout - great laulau all day long. (LD $) TEX DRIVE IN Kalapana Street and Highway 19 Honokaa, HI 96727 (Hamakua Coast District) Tel. (808) 775-0598 Island's best burger and local favorites - "ono kine" food and malassadas! (BLD $) Top Big Island Restaurants Index | Restaurants Index | Home Page Contact Us | Sponsor Join Us Form ©Ala Mua Hawaii 1997

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Hawaii tourism - Hawaii vacation reviews - Hawaii vacations - TripAdvisor Hawaii vacations - Hawaii tourism Sign in • Sign up Home > United States > Hawaii > Hawaii Tourism Hawaii tourism: Overview Hotels Flights Attractions Dining Deals Forums Maps, etc. All Hawaii reviews Search (e.g., Boston hotels, Las Vegas, Paris art museum) Hawaii Hawaii Overview All Hawaii Reviews Hawaii Hotels Flights to Hawaii Hawaii Deals Hawaii Attractions Hawaii Restaurants Hawaii Forums Hawaii Maps Hawaii Discount Hotels Hawaii Vacation Packages e-mail this page to a friend Traveler Reviews Write a review . What was your experience with Hawaii? Tell others what's hot and what's not. 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Top-Rated hotels: Wai Ola Vacation Paradise on Maui , Lahaina, Maui Hale Koa Hotel , Honolulu, Oahu Four Seasons Resort Maui , Kihei, Maui Napili Bay Resort , Lahaina, Maui Outrigger Kanaloa at Kona , Kailua-Kona, Island of Hawaii Kuhio Shores Condos , Koloa, Kauai Whalers Cove , Koloa, Kauai View all Hawaii hotels Top-Rated B&Bs: Waterfalls Inn Bed & Breakfast , Hilo, Island of Hawaii Hale Hualalai Bed and Breakfast , Holualoa, Island of Hawaii Volcano Teapot Cottage Bed & Breakfast , Volcano, Island of Hawaii View all Hawaii B&Bs Find top hotels by destination: Select your destination Haleakala National Park Hawaii Volcanoes National Park Honolulu Island of Hawaii Kauai Lanai Maui Molokai Oahu Popular Hawaii Destinations Check out these popular places: Haleakala National Park Hawaii Volcanoes National Park Honolulu Island of Hawaii Kauai Lanai Maui Molokai Oahu Waikiki Hawaii Attractions and Dining Top Hawaii Attractions: Hana Highway , Maui Haleakala Crater , Haleakala National Park, Maui USS Arizona Memorial , Honolulu, Oahu Polynesian Cultural Center , Laie, Oahu Iolani Palace , Honolulu, Oahu Na Pali Coast , Kauai Bishop Museum , Honolulu, Oahu Old Lahaina Luau , Lahaina, Maui Diamond Head , Honolulu, Oahu Waikiki Beach , Honolulu, Oahu Click above or search for more attractions in your destination: Select your destination Haleakala National Park Hawaii Volcanoes National Park Honolulu Island of Hawaii Kauai Lanai Maui Molokai Oahu Waikiki Top Hawaii Restaurants: Hoku's , Honolulu, Oahu Iva's Place - Isenberg St. , Honolulu, Oahu Kakaako Kitchen , Honolulu, Oahu Hamura Saimin Stand , Lihue, Kauai Jimbo , Honolulu, Oahu Hulopoe Court , Lanai City, Lanai Hanapepe Bookstore Cafe & Espresso Bar , Hanapepe, Kauai La Mer , Honolulu, Oahu Merriman's , Kamuela, Island of Hawaii The Terrace , Lanai City, Lanai Click above or search for more restaurants in your destination: Select your destination Haleakala National Park Honolulu Island of Hawaii Kauai Lanai Maui Molokai Oahu Waikiki Hawaii Articles and Guidebooks SmartDeals From tips & tricks to rants & raves. Read the best sources and the most up-to-date reviews... "Overview of Hawaii," Frommer's "An Online Update for Frommer's Hawaii," Aug 9, 2004 , Frommer's "Fifty Five Tips for Planning an Affordable Trip to Hawaii," Mar 1, 2004 , Frommer's "More Than Just a Pretty Place," Feb 1, 2004 , aaa-calif.com / Westways Read all Hawaii reviews Find a great Hawaii hotel deal! SmartDeals show you the best rates on the best hotels. Four Seasons Resort Maui Average price: $571 Four Seasons Resort Maui - Book best available room - ClassicVacations.com More reviews, deals Wai Ola Vacation Paradise on Maui Average price: $75 Wai Ola Vacation Paradise on Maui - Low Rates - OnlineHotels.com More reviews, deals Outrigger Kanaloa at Kona Average price: $216 Outrigger Kanaloa at Kona - Great Rates - Expedia.com More reviews, deals View all SmartDeals Hawaii Traveler Forums Travelers like you give candid advice on hotels and much more. Join the Discussion Need help booking, any advice? 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