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Charming, blue-collar Hilo is the unsung Hawaii SFGate Home Business Sports Entertainment Travel Jobs Real Estate Autos SFGate News Web by Charming, blue-collar Hilo is the unsung Hawaii Eric Brazil, Special to The Chronicle Sunday, August 25, 2002 now part of stylesheet -- Printable Version Email This Article Hilo, Hawaii --Because Hilo gets 130 inches of rain a year, lacks white-sand beaches and has a history of being clobbered by tsunamis, tourists tend to bypass Hawaii's second-biggest city. Big mistake. Hilo, the county seat of the Big Island, with a population of 47,000, has authentic South Seas charm, a vibrant local culture, a rich history and some of the grandest sights anywhere on the planet. Located on the windward side of the island, Hilo has taken a backseat as a tourist destination to the Kailua area on the Kona Coast, with its dry climate and reliable sunshine, luxury hotels, world-class sportfishing and famous coffee. Hilo's physical setting is spectacular, with false-fronted, early 20th century downtown buildings curving along Kamehameha Avenue around palm-lined Hilo Bay, and 13,796-foot Mauna Kea -- snow-crowned in winter -- rising majestically in the background. The city's tropical gardens are perpetually abloom with orchids, ginger and anthurium, and its orchards are heavy with avocados, bananas, guava and macadamia nuts. Just up the road, the active volcano Kilauea steams and smokes and sends molten lava streams snaking seaward. Unlike Honolulu, which is beset by many of the mainland's intractable big-city problems, or Kailua-Kona, with its array of glitzy shops and tourist hustle, Hilo is your basic working-class American small town, except for its decidedly tropical atmosphere. A city with a day-old-bread store smack in the middle of its main street does not put on airs. Yes, Hilo has sprawl. Development, including a huge shopping center with a Wal-Mart, creeps inexorably up Highway 11. But at the city's old, slightly ramshackle, multiethnic core, the beat is slow. Pidgin, the local dialect, is widely spoken here. The Wiki Wiki market advertises "Poi -- We Always Get" in its front window. An arborist in the Puna district bills himself as "Da Puna Pruna." One of Hilo's most colorful and distinctive institutions, the Suisan fish auction on the waterfront at Banyan Drive and Lihiwai Street, was recently closed and doesn't expect to reopen. But visitors can still experience fresh-from-the-producers action at the daily farmers' market on Kamehameha Avenue, where flowers, tropical fruit and vegetables, smoked fish, local cheeses and even some livestock are for sale. We saw a baby goat sold for $50 and led away on a rope leash by a father who evidently intended it as a family pet. Old-town Hilo, between Ponahawai Street and Wailuku Drive, extending three blocks back from Hilo Bay, is an easy stroll. But a car is handy for attractions on the edge of town, notably Rainbow Falls and the Boiling Pots on the Wailuku River, and the tropical gardens that lie just beyond the city limits. One of Hilo's don't-miss attractions is its Pacific Tsunami Museum. Hilo was devastated by two deadly "tidal waves." In 1946, 91 people died and most of the city's business district, an entire residential area, its railroad and the royal fish ponds were destroyed. In 1960, a 35-foot swell, born of an earthquake off the coast of Chile, 6,000 miles away, killed 61 people and destroyed 537 buildings. The museum features awe-inspiring photographs of the damage created by the tsunamis and a video, with scenes from both, plus interviews with survivors. "We're overdue for another big one," said Nani Pierce, a museum docent and survivor of the 1960 disaster. Hilo figures to be better prepared next time, since the installation of a fine-tuned early-warning system, plus the creation of clearly marked evacuation routes leading to higher ground. "First there's a warning," Pierce said. "Then 'it's coming' and finally 'watch out, it's here.' " Another worthwhile attraction is the Lyman Mission House and Museum. Built in 1839 by Congregationalist missionaries, it is the oldest wood-frame building on the island of Hawaii, and it contains an impressive aggregation of furniture, household implements and artifacts from the period when the impact of newly arrived people of European ancestry was first being felt in the Hawaiian Islands. Dining in Hilo can be an adventure. And it can be cheap. At Cafe 100 on Kilauea Avenue, we filled up for $4 each on loco moco -- a cholesterolically lethal, but tasty, concoction of fried meat under a mountain of gravy-soaked rice, topped with a fried egg. Cafe 100 serves 17 kinds of loco moco, including the Super Loco, which includes Spam, linguica, kim chee, two fried eggs and a side order of macaroni-potato salad. Low International Food, which occupies the corner of Kilauea Avenue and Ponahawai Street and specializes in unusual breads -- mango, guava, taro, coconut -- also serves something called a gravy burger. Being fainthearted haole mainlanders, we passed. Banyan Drive, a 15-minute stroll or a short drive from downtown Hilo, is a destination in itself, with luxury hotels, Uncle Billy's lounge -- which has a nightly Hawaiian musical act -- a nine-hole golf course and one of the most delightful public spaces anywhere, the Liliuokalani Garden. Meticulously landscaped, clean as a pin and free, the Japanese-style garden is situated on the edge of Hilo Bay and has been constructed to permit tidal movement in the pools set among its walking paths and flowering shrubs. Fishing is permitted. The banyan, ironwood and palm trees throughout the garden resound with birdsong -- principally mynah birds, which, along with mongooses and feral cats, are a dominant wildlife species on the Big Island and the bane of indigenous fauna. There are swimming beaches near town, but better ones are 45 minutes away on the Puna Coast, southeast of Hilo. Among them is Alalanui Park, where we soaked in a terrific, sandy-bottomed thermal pool, protected from crashing surf by a breakwater -- a good thing to remember when the tsunami alarm goes off. If you go-- GETTING THERE: Hawaiian and Aloha airlines fly regularly to Hilo from Honolulu.-- WHERE TO STAY: We stayed at the Hilo Hawaiian, 71 Banyan Drive, Hilo, HI 96720; phone, (800) 367-5004; Web, www.castleresorts.com . We got the Internet rate of $119 a night for an ocean-view room. Official rates are $149 for an ocean view, $183-$277 for suites, $119 for a garden view. We also stayed at the Dolphin Bay Hotel, 333 Iliahi St., Hilo, HI, 96720; (808) 935-1466; www.dolphinbayhotel.com . $72 a night for a standard double, which includes a kitchen; $99, for two-bedroom doubles. Shipman House B&B, 131 Kaiulani St., Hilo, 96720; (800) 627-8447; e-mail, inn keeper@hilo-hawaii.com ; Web, www.hilo-hawaii.com . This elegant "old Hawaii" landmark, built in 1800, is set on 5 exquisitely landscaped acres on a ridge above the city. It's worth a visit even if you don't stay there. Doubles, $145-$175 a night. Wild Ginger Inn, 100 Puueo St., Hilo, HI 96720; (877) 212-8276, www.wildgingerinn.com . Twenty-seven rooms within walking distance of downtown. Private rooms $45-$69, but the inn offers "shared accommodation" for four to six people per room at $15 apiece.-- WHERE TO EAT: Seaside Restaurant, 1790 Kalaniaole Ave.; (808) 935-8825. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 5-8:30 p.m. Reservations recommended. A terrific restaurant -- not much on decor, but splendid seafood raised in the owner's ponds in the backyard lagoon. Dinner for two with wine, about $60.-- WHAT TO DO: Pacific Tsunami Museum, 130 Kamehameha Ave., (808) 935-0926; www.tsunami.org . Adults, $5; students, $2; children under 5, free. Open Monday to Saturday, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Lyman Mission House and Museum, 276 Haili St.; (808) 935-5021, www.lymanmuseum.org . Open Monday to Saturday, 9 a.m.-4:30 p.m.-- FOR MORE INFORMATION: Big Island Visitors Bureau, 250 Keawe St., Hilo, HI 96720; (808) 886-1655, www.bigisland.org . Eric Brazil recently retired as a reporter for The Chronicle. Page C - 14 Get up to 50% off home delivery of the Chronicle for 12 weeks! EARLY SPRING PATIO FURNITURE SALE Order now at fantastic savings for Spring delivery Allegro Classics Bay Area Donate a car to Habitat for Humanity Your car donation helps build homes for families in need. 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'Ekolu's 4th release "Ekolu Music" is sure to delight Island Music fans with 13 new tracks (10 original). The CD has already charted on the Billboard World Music Charts and is a best seller all over the state of Hawaii. You've been asking for it, and now were pleased to let you know that one of our most requested items is now available. "IZ THE SONGBOOK COLLECTION," a book of Sheet Music for 'Ukulele and Guitar that includes Sheet Music, Chords, Lyrics & Translations & Photos of IZ.15 OF IZ'S BEST KNOWN SONGS from 4 Best-Selling IZ CD's (Facing Future, Alone In IZ World, E Ala E, N Dis Life) BuyHawaiianMusic.com is also pleased to feature the Iz Pack which includes all 6 of Iz's solo cd's. Order Now and save! Welcome to BuyHawaiianMusic.com Welcome to BuyHawaiianMusic.com one of the world's finest online Hawaiian Music stores. You can buy Hawaiian Music from our huge catalog of Hawaiian titles on compact disc. Whether it's classic Hawaiian artists like Gabby Pahinui and Kalapana or hot contemporary artists like Keali'i Reichel, Na Leo, or Fiji you'll find it at BuyHawaiianMusic.com. If you don't see it listed here, send us an email at info@buyhawaiianmusic.com and we'll see if we can find it for you. Mahalo for visiting BuyHawaiianMusic.com. Support Hawaiian Music! Featured Product After a 4 year hiatus, Damon Williams is back on the scene with his long and much anticipated album entitled, "REBORN" . Raised in Lahaina on the island of Maui, Damon Williams began singing and competing in talent contests around town and throughout the islands. He's performed and toured with Hawaii's top Entertainer's, Keali'i Reichel and Fiji. Damon released his solo debut album in 1997 entitled, "Love is All." In 2001, his sophomore album, "On the island," was released and Damon instantly became an Island favorite. "REBORN" which Damon himself has called, "My Best work yet." This album features a new vibe and sound. Having penned 7 of the songs, Damon has not only grown as a vocalist. His studio knowledge enabled him to Record, Mix and Master his own project in his studio on the Big Island where he now resides..........Introducing, "Damon Williams," "REBORN" Buy Now Store Home | Search | Shopping Cart | Customer Service View Cart Empty Checkout OUR PRICE: $16.98 Oahu Molokai Lanai MauiHawaii's Official Tourism Site - Travel info for your Oahu vacation Choose a Category Calendar of Events Accommodations Activities & Attractions Dining Golf Services & Information Shopping Transportation Travel Professionals Weddings & Honeymoons Free Visitors Guide Hawaii Travel Tips Sharing Aloha Choose an Island All Islands Kauai Oahu Molokai Lanai Maui Hawaii's Big Island Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec 04 05 Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec 04 05 Help me find... Calendar of Events Accommodations Activities & Attractions Dining Golf Services & Information Shopping Transportation Travel Professionals Weddings & Honeymoons Free Visitors Guide Hawaii Travel Tips Sharing Aloha Alternate Search Home > Family Fun > Oahu Kauai Oahu Molokai Lanai Maui Hawaii's Big Island In Hawaii, it’s evident that caring for keiki (children) is very important. On Oahu, there are a variety of exciting activities designed specifically with kids and families in mind. Take a submarine ride and witness sunken ships, airliners and reef structures. Ride the thrilling waterslides at Hawaiian Waters Adventure Park. Get up close and personal with dolphins, sea turtles, stingrays, sharks, and moray eels at Sea Life Park. Spend the day at the Honolulu Zoo or Waikiki Aquarium and see animal and marine life like you’ve never seen anywhere else. Or explore 4,000-acres of fun at Kualoa Ranch by horse, ATV, helicopter, jet ski or kayak. There are also plenty of other educational and cultural excursions for kids and families year-round, including nature walks, hikes, wildlife feedings, fishing, catamaran sails and more. Many hotels and condominiums also offer programs for kids that include activities such as lei and kite making, lauhala weaving, and sandcastle building. This is one family vacation where boredom is never a problem! : Hawaii's Whales : Interactive Hula Dancer : Oahu Family Events : Find Family Offers M EETINGS & C ONVENTIONS | T RAVEL T RADE R ESOURCES | M EDIA C OMMUNICATIONS Corporate Information | Contact Us | Privacy Policy | Terms & Conditions | ©2005 Hawaii Visitors and Convention Bureau Hawaii wedding package whichHawaii Wedding Maui Wedding Oahu Wedding Kauai Wedding Honeymoon Click on the photos above to go to our wedding packages for Maui, Oahu, Kauai and Hawaii Hawaiian Wedding Packages Hawaii is truly the most enchanted setting for your wedding day. Paradise surrounds you as you exchange your vows amidst a tropical waterfall, or on a secluded tropical Hawaiian beach at sunset or in a historic Hawaiian church. The variety is as endless as the beauty of these islands. Why choose a wedding in Hawaii? Why not? It's easy and affordable to choose a Hawaii wedding package which suits your needs and includes a destination wedding and honeymoon and a Hawaiian theme wedding together. An exotic and affordable beach wedding is the most popular choice. Be married barefooted, wear your favorite Hawaiian shirt and shorts and dress Hawaiian at your wedding. What ever attire you choose, there is a wedding package in Hawaii that will fulfill all of your island wedding dreams. A Maui wedding is the most popular way to tie the knot Hawaiian style. Your Maui wedding planner will help you choose a Maui wedding package which will include your own on site coordinator and specially selected beach location just perfect for your romantic wedding ceremony. Don't forget your photographer, wedding cake, wedding video, flowers and other wedding services for your romantic Maui wedding. A Hawaii wedding Oahu style is another very popular choice for couples who are considering bringing more wedding guests. Since Oahu is considered the "Gathering Place", and offers the best hotel rates in Hawaii, having your wedding in Oahu may be a good choice for you and your guests. Choose a wedding package and a beautiful beach wedding location that your wedding planner will be happy to suggest to you. Your wedding photographer will be sure to capture all the beauty of your wedding in Oahu and your wedding honeymoon will be one that you will never forget. Then there is always another choice - choose a Kauai wedding instead. A Kauai Hawaii wedding on the lush tropical "Garden Isle" can be very affordable and secluded. Kauai is usually the choice for couples who want to escape the crowds and run off to the most secluded Hawaiian island for their wedding and honeymoon. Consider a Fern Grotto wedding, a resort wedding, or a beach wedding. Your wedding coordinator can suggest a great Kauai wedding honeymoon package which includes a beautiful wedding location and accommodation featuring breathtaking ocean vistas, all to be captured by your professional wedding photographer. Honeymoon Packages Hawaii offers countless fabulous resorts and hotels for your honeymoon in paradise. See our suggested honeymoon resorts on Maui, Oahu and Kauai. These top resorts offer all of the amenities you expect From beauty and spa services to Mai Tais by the pool, you'll will be impressed with the Hawaiian hospitality and aloha spirit shone upon you at these top resorts. The Renaissance Wailea Resort offers a Deluxe ocean view room - you can throw an ice cube to the ocean from your lanai - see details. The newly renovated Turtle Bay Resort on the North Shore of Oahu is escapism at it's finest - Every room is ocean view - see details. Kauai Marriott Resort is our newest Honeymoon hideaway - The best ocean view accommodations and services in Kauai - see details. The Hyatt Regency Maui Resort offers Deluxe Ocean Front accommodations - The best ocean front view on Ka'anapali Beach - see details. If you have questions, feel free to email or call our toll free number. We are happy to answer all your questions and suggest special ways you can customize your arrangements here in Hawaii. Our helpful staff is waiting to help you arrange the wedding ceremony of your dreams. Looking forward to talking with you soon! Tim Clark, President Find Your Photos | About Us | Contact Us | Affiliations | Hawaiian Marriage License Application Changes/Additions Form | Purchase CD's | Site Map | Maui Receptions | Sunset Times View Sample Video 1996-2006, Hawaiian Island Weddings Inc. All rights reserved. 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