Hawaiian food — Kalua


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Hawaii: Islands of Surprise latimes.com | Jobs | Cars | Homes | Rentals | Newspaper Ads | Personals | Place an Ad Advertising Supplement Water Fun Relaxation Culture Cuisine Go to Hawaii to eat Spam? That’s probably not one of the top reasons most people visit the islands, but the canned processed pork is popular at restaurants catering to locals, sharing the menu with other classic Hawaiian dishes such as lau lau (fish, beef or pork wrapped in taro leaves), loco moco (steamed rice topped with a hamburger, a fried egg and brown gravy) and shredded Kalua pig. American soldiers introduced the Hawaiians to Spam during World War II. Now nearly 7 million cans are sold annually in the islands, according to the Hormel website. But if Spam doesn’t appeal to your tastebuds, it’s not a problem. There’s plenty of other grind (food) that locals find ono (delicious). One favorite is the inexpensive but generously portioned Hawaiian plate lunch. It can incorporate Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Filipino, Hawaiian and American dishes — often all on one plate — and is best eaten on a day when there’s nothing planned for the afternoon except a nap on the beach. Here are some fun, funky and fabulous places for local grind. Maui The exterior of the restaurant, which has no sign. Top left: The clay pot at A Saigon Cafe A Saigon Cafe There is no sign for A Saigon Cafe, but people find it anyway, says manager Nguyan Nguyan (friends call him Chicken Wing.) Located in Wailuku Town, about 15 minutes from Kahului Airport (Maui’s main airport), A Saigon Café uses fresh, local ingredients for its Vietnamese dishes, which have attracted an enthusiastic local following. Nguyan said the Food Network’s Rachael Ray recently featured the restaurant for a Maui segment of “$40 A Day” and interviewed him. “I’m a movie star,” he said. Favorites include calamari, shrimp and clay pot (shrimp and fried rice), sauteed string beans, chicken salad, stuffed tofu, steamed fresh fish of the day (served whole) and spring rolls. A Saigon Cafe, 1792 Main St., Wailuku; (808) 243-9560 Da Kitchen’s fish tempura Da Kitchen “People will eat any kind of food, the same food two or three times a week, as long as it’s good food,” said Da Kitchen’s owner Les Tomita, explaining the restaurant’s philosophy. Five minutes from Kahului Airport, Da Kitchen is popular with tourists and locals, who drop by to enjoy traditional Hawaiian food — Kalua pork, lomi (salted salmon chopped with tomatoes and onion), lau lau, chicken long rice, poi and plate lunches with such entreés as teriyaki chicken, Korean Kobe ribs, hamburger steak cutlets and fish tempura served with rice and macaroni salad. Da Kitchen, 425 Koloa St., Kahului; (808) 871-7782 For more information about Maui restaurants and cuisine visit, www.visitmaui.com . Kauai Caffe Coco Located on the edge of a cane field, with a view of Sleeping Giant Mountain across the fields, Caffe Coco’s courtyard dining room is all lush vines, exotic foliage and tropical flowers. At night, tiki torches blaze, live jazz plays and the food is, according to owner Ginger Carlson, “unpretentious, healthful and world class. No deep frying.” Offerings include macadamia nut and black sesame crusted ahi with wasabi cream, Moroccan-spiced tofu and roast-veggie wraps, curried sweet potato samosas and silver noodle salad. Carlson also sells a line of condiments used in the restaurant. A favorite is Jungle Jazz, a guava-based grilling sauce ($4 a jar). Caffe Coco, 4-369 Kuhio Highway, Kapaa; (808) 822-7990 Tropical Taco Surfer and restaurant owner Roger Kennedy is something of a local legend on Kauai. Back in the ’70s, the California native was given a one-way ticket to Hawaii from his father as a high school graduation present. After stints working in the pineapple and cane fields, Kennedy started looking for a way to “teach surfing and not starve.” He bought a lunch wagon and parked it, loaded with surfing paraphernalia, on the edge of Hanalei and waited for the lunch crowd to show up. They arrived in droves, ravenous for his tacos, burritos and Fat Jacks (10-inch burritos). Five years ago, he opened a sit-down place (24 chairs and 17 stools) outside in Hanalei Town. All the food is made to order which, Kennedy admitted, can sometimes lead to a 25-minute wait for a taco, especially since he likes to talk to customers as he cooks. Said manager Celine Molina, “Everything is made with love. We just ask for patience.” Tropical Taco, Halele’a Building, 5-5088 Kuhio Hwy. Hanalei; (808) 827-8226 Hawaii The main dining room at Huggo’s. Huggo’s (indoor dining) and Huggo’s On The Rocks (informal) When Hugo and Shirley von Platen Luder opened Huggo’s back in 1969, it quickly became a gathering spot where local fishermen met to “talk story” (Hawaiian for shoot the breeze). Today, it’s still the place to go for fish macadamia nut-crusted mahi mahi, crab-crusted ono (the No. 1 requested dish) and Asian-seared ahi. Times change, though. Where commercial fishermen once called in on two-way radios to report their catch, they now use cellphones, says the von Platen Luders’ son, Eric, who now manages the restaurant. The yellow fin tuna caught in the morning, he said, may end up as the dinner special that night. Live entertainment is featured at the spectacular oceanfront location. Huggo’s, 75-5828 Kahakai Road, Kailua-Kona; (808) 329-1493 Ocean View Inn In business for 70 years, the family-owned Ocean View Inn, across from the Kailua Pier, is the oldest restaurant in Kona. Jeannette Kuwadu, the restaurant’s manager and granddaughter of the original owners, said that except for the prices, which have gone up a bit, the menu hasn’t changed much over the years. One can still find chopstick rice, tripe stew, poi, lau lau, Kalua pork, raw fish and Spam with eggs or cabbage. Inexpensive and popular with locals, the restaurant has a casual and friendly service. Go with an appetite — the plate lunches are large, fried and carb laden. Ocean View Inn, 75-5683 Alii Drive; (808) 329-9998 Oahu Wally Ho’s Garage & Grill Wally Ho ran a gas station and repair shop at this location for 40 years. But a few years back, the gas tanks sprang a leak so they were hauled away, a commercial kitchen was installed and Wally’s became a garage and grill. Ho is retired now, but his daughter, Willette — who manages the family-owned business — describes the fare as healthy Hawaiian with an emphasis on fresh. This means, for example, you can choose brown rice instead of white for your plate lunch, order a green salad and know that the food is prepared without a lot of fat. The fish is fresh. On Fridays and Saturdays, Wally’s serves Hawaiian food — lau lau, Kalua pig, lomi, a choice of rice or poi and, for dessert, haupia, described by one aficionado as a sinful but angelically white coconut desert. Wally Ho’s Garage & Grill, 98-380 Kamehameha Highway, Aiea; (808) 488-2220 Janice MacDonald is a freelance writer based in Vista. Top of Page | Home Use Unusual Elements to Spice Up Your Patio Add Color with Window Boxes Make Spring Cleaning More Spiritual See How Sexy Sectionals Can Be Create a Family Room that’s Chic…and Cozy Update Metal Beds with New Materials What is the Square Root of Chic? Spring for Stripes this Season Learn to Create a Personal Style for Your Home Turn your Kitchen into an Island Paradise Advertising Supplement
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