Hawaiian City Garden

Charming, blue-collar Hilo is the unsung Hawaii SFGate Home Business Sports Entertainment Travel Jobs Real Estate Autos SFGate News Web by Charming, blue-collar Hilo is the unsung Hawaii Eric Brazil, Special to The Chronicle Sunday, August 25, 2002 now part of stylesheet -- Printable Version Email This Article Hilo, Hawaii --Because Hilo gets 130 inches of rain a year, lacks white-sand beaches and has a history of being clobbered by tsunamis, tourists tend to bypass Hawaii's second-biggest city. Big mistake. Hilo, the county seat of the Big Island, with a population of 47,000, has authentic South Seas charm, a vibrant local culture, a rich history and some of the grandest sights anywhere on the planet. Located on the windward side of the island, Hilo has taken a backseat as a tourist destination to the Kailua area on the Kona Coast, with its dry climate and reliable sunshine, luxury hotels, world-class sportfishing and famous coffee. Hilo's physical setting is spectacular, with false-fronted, early 20th century downtown buildings curving along Kamehameha Avenue around palm-lined Hilo Bay, and 13,796-foot Mauna Kea -- snow-crowned in winter -- rising majestically in the background. The city's tropical gardens are perpetually abloom with orchids, ginger and anthurium, and its orchards are heavy with avocados, bananas, guava and macadamia nuts. Just up the road, the active volcano Kilauea steams and smokes and sends molten lava streams snaking seaward. Unlike Honolulu, which is beset by many of the mainland's intractable big-city problems, or Kailua-Kona, with its array of glitzy shops and tourist hustle, Hilo is your basic working-class American small town, except for its decidedly tropical atmosphere. A city with a day-old-bread store smack in the middle of its main street does not put on airs. Yes, Hilo has sprawl. Development, including a huge shopping center with a Wal-Mart, creeps inexorably up Highway 11. But at the city's old, slightly ramshackle, multiethnic core, the beat is slow. Pidgin, the local dialect, is widely spoken here. The Wiki Wiki market advertises "Poi -- We Always Get" in its front window. An arborist in the Puna district bills himself as "Da Puna Pruna." One of Hilo's most colorful and distinctive institutions, the Suisan fish auction on the waterfront at Banyan Drive and Lihiwai Street, was recently closed and doesn't expect to reopen. But visitors can still experience fresh-from-the-producers action at the daily farmers' market on Kamehameha Avenue, where flowers, tropical fruit and vegetables, smoked fish, local cheeses and even some livestock are for sale. We saw a baby goat sold for $50 and led away on a rope leash by a father who evidently intended it as a family pet. Old-town Hilo, between Ponahawai Street and Wailuku Drive, extending three blocks back from Hilo Bay, is an easy stroll. But a car is handy for attractions on the edge of town, notably Rainbow Falls and the Boiling Pots on the Wailuku River, and the tropical gardens that lie just beyond the city limits. One of Hilo's don't-miss attractions is its Pacific Tsunami Museum. Hilo was devastated by two deadly "tidal waves." In 1946, 91 people died and most of the city's business district, an entire residential area, its railroad and the royal fish ponds were destroyed. In 1960, a 35-foot swell, born of an earthquake off the coast of Chile, 6,000 miles away, killed 61 people and destroyed 537 buildings. The museum features awe-inspiring photographs of the damage created by the tsunamis and a video, with scenes from both, plus interviews with survivors. "We're overdue for another big one," said Nani Pierce, a museum docent and survivor of the 1960 disaster. Hilo figures to be better prepared next time, since the installation of a fine-tuned early-warning system, plus the creation of clearly marked evacuation routes leading to higher ground. "First there's a warning," Pierce said. "Then 'it's coming' and finally 'watch out, it's here.' " Another worthwhile attraction is the Lyman Mission House and Museum. Built in 1839 by Congregationalist missionaries, it is the oldest wood-frame building on the island of Hawaii, and it contains an impressive aggregation of furniture, household implements and artifacts from the period when the impact of newly arrived people of European ancestry was first being felt in the Hawaiian Islands. Dining in Hilo can be an adventure. And it can be cheap. At Cafe 100 on Kilauea Avenue, we filled up for $4 each on loco moco -- a cholesterolically lethal, but tasty, concoction of fried meat under a mountain of gravy-soaked rice, topped with a fried egg. Cafe 100 serves 17 kinds of loco moco, including the Super Loco, which includes Spam, linguica, kim chee, two fried eggs and a side order of macaroni-potato salad. Low International Food, which occupies the corner of Kilauea Avenue and Ponahawai Street and specializes in unusual breads -- mango, guava, taro, coconut -- also serves something called a gravy burger. Being fainthearted haole mainlanders, we passed. Banyan Drive, a 15-minute stroll or a short drive from downtown Hilo, is a destination in itself, with luxury hotels, Uncle Billy's lounge -- which has a nightly Hawaiian musical act -- a nine-hole golf course and one of the most delightful public spaces anywhere, the Liliuokalani Garden. Meticulously landscaped, clean as a pin and free, the Japanese-style garden is situated on the edge of Hilo Bay and has been constructed to permit tidal movement in the pools set among its walking paths and flowering shrubs. Fishing is permitted. The banyan, ironwood and palm trees throughout the garden resound with birdsong -- principally mynah birds, which, along with mongooses and feral cats, are a dominant wildlife species on the Big Island and the bane of indigenous fauna. There are swimming beaches near town, but better ones are 45 minutes away on the Puna Coast, southeast of Hilo. Among them is Alalanui Park, where we soaked in a terrific, sandy-bottomed thermal pool, protected from crashing surf by a breakwater -- a good thing to remember when the tsunami alarm goes off. If you go-- GETTING THERE: Hawaiian and Aloha airlines fly regularly to Hilo from Honolulu.-- WHERE TO STAY: We stayed at the Hilo Hawaiian, 71 Banyan Drive, Hilo, HI 96720; phone, (800) 367-5004; Web, www.castleresorts.com . We got the Internet rate of $119 a night for an ocean-view room. Official rates are $149 for an ocean view, $183-$277 for suites, $119 for a garden view. We also stayed at the Dolphin Bay Hotel, 333 Iliahi St., Hilo, HI, 96720; (808) 935-1466; www.dolphinbayhotel.com . $72 a night for a standard double, which includes a kitchen; $99, for two-bedroom doubles. Shipman House B&B, 131 Kaiulani St., Hilo, 96720; (800) 627-8447; e-mail, inn keeper@hilo-hawaii.com ; Web, www.hilo-hawaii.com . This elegant "old Hawaii" landmark, built in 1800, is set on 5 exquisitely landscaped acres on a ridge above the city. It's worth a visit even if you don't stay there. Doubles, $145-$175 a night. Wild Ginger Inn, 100 Puueo St., Hilo, HI 96720; (877) 212-8276, www.wildgingerinn.com . Twenty-seven rooms within walking distance of downtown. Private rooms $45-$69, but the inn offers "shared accommodation" for four to six people per room at $15 apiece.-- WHERE TO EAT: Seaside Restaurant, 1790 Kalaniaole Ave.; (808) 935-8825. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 5-8:30 p.m. Reservations recommended. A terrific restaurant -- not much on decor, but splendid seafood raised in the owner's ponds in the backyard lagoon. Dinner for two with wine, about $60.-- WHAT TO DO: Pacific Tsunami Museum, 130 Kamehameha Ave., (808) 935-0926; www.tsunami.org . Adults, $5; students, $2; children under 5, free. Open Monday to Saturday, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Lyman Mission House and Museum, 276 Haili St.; (808) 935-5021, www.lymanmuseum.org . Open Monday to Saturday, 9 a.m.-4:30 p.m.-- FOR MORE INFORMATION: Big Island Visitors Bureau, 250 Keawe St., Hilo, HI 96720; (808) 886-1655, www.bigisland.org . Eric Brazil recently retired as a reporter for The Chronicle. Page C - 14 Get up to 50% off home delivery of the Chronicle for 12 weeks! EARLY SPRING PATIO FURNITURE SALE Order now at fantastic savings for Spring delivery Allegro Classics Bay Area Donate a car to Habitat for Humanity Your car donation helps build homes for families in need. 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Top Hotel Deals in Kauai,Hawaii, HI Make a reservation at one of many Kauai hotels, and hula dance your way towards Hawaii's famous sunsets and fluted cliffs. Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort and Spa from $364 Located on a spectacular 50-acre oceanfront setting on Keoneloa Bay, the Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort and Spa is part of the world-famous Poipu Beach District. The resort is approximately 16 miles from Lihue Airport. More Hotel Info. Kauai Beach Hotel and Resort from $189 -KAUAIS OCEANFRONT RESORT SITUATED ON 25 LUSHLYLANDSCAPED ACRES ON KAUAIS LONGEST EXPLORING AND SANDYBEACH. THE RESORT OFFERS A CENTRAL CONVENIENT LOCATION TO THE AIRPORT, SHOPPING AND ALL OF KAUAI'S ACTIVITIES. More Hotel Info. More Great Deals - Guaranteed! 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(Maximum 6 travelers) Rooms: 1 2 3 4 Room 1: Adults (18+) Adults (18-64) 1 2 3 4 5 6 Children Children (2-17) 0 1 2 3 4 5 Seniors (65+) 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 Room 2: Adults (18+) Adults (18-64) 1 2 3 4 5 6 Children Children (2-17) 0 1 2 3 4 5 Seniors (65+) 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 Room 3: Adults (18+) Adults (18-64) 1 2 3 4 5 6 Children Children (2-17) 0 1 2 3 4 5 Seniors (65+) 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 Room 4: Adults (18+) Adults (18-64) 1 2 3 4 5 6 Children Children (2-17) 0 1 2 3 4 5 Seniors (65+) 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 Search Search Rates will be based on single or double occupancy. Extra person charges may apply. * Note: Rates shown above may not be available for your selected travel dates. Rates are based on the lowest average per night price for a two night stay based on double occupancy over a period of 45 days. 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Hawaiian-Recipes Recipes Store US Recipe Book Store UK Recipe Book Shop US Recipes | UK Recipes | Gourmet Food | Appliances | Vacuums | Housewares | Baking | Cookware | Cutlery Hawaiian-Recipes Regional Recipe Books African Recipes American Recipes Asian Recipes Australian Recipes Chinese Food Recipes Cuban Recipes English Recipes French Recipes German Recipes Greek Recipes Hawaiian Recipes Hungarian Recipes Indian Recipes Irish Recipes Italian Recipes Italian Pasta Recipes Italian Dessert Recipes Japanese Recipes Korean Recipes Mexican Food Recipes Easy Mexican Recipes Authentic Mexican Recipes Mexican Dessert Recipes Polish Recipes Scottish Recipes Southern Recipes Spanish Recipes Thai Recipes Tasting Paradise: Restaurants & Recipes of the Hawaiian Islands Tasting Paradise: Restaurants & Recipes of the Hawaiian Islands Author: Karen Bacon Publisher: Coastal Images RRP: $18.95 Our Price: Saving: $ 18.95 (100%) Hawaii's Favorite Pineapple Recipes Hawaii's Favorite Pineapple Recipes Author: Joan Clare Dobbs Publisher: Mutual Publishing RRP: $13.95 Our Price: $13.95 Saving: $ (%) Usually ships in 24 hours Island cooking; favorite Hawaiian Islands recipes Island cooking; favorite Hawaiian Islands recipes Author: Bonnie Tuell Publisher: Distributed by Maui Printing & Paper Products Co RRP: Our Price: $13.95 Saving: $ (%) Hawaiian Country Tables: Vintage Recipes for Today's Cook Hawaiian Country Tables: Vintage Recipes for Today's Cook Author: Kaui Philpotts Publisher: Bess Press Inc RRP: $19.95 Our Price: Saving: $ 19.95 (100%) Hawaiian and Pacific foods : a cook book of culinary customs and recipes Hawaiian and Pacific foods : a cook book of culinary customs and recipes Author: Katherine Bazore RRP: Our Price: Saving: $ (%) Hawaiian Plantations Recipe Collection Hawaiian Plantations Recipe Collection Publisher: Hawaiian Plantations Incorporated RRP: Our Price: Saving: $ (%) A hundred years of island cooking: Recipes A hundred years of island cooking: Recipes Publisher: Hawaiian Electric Co RRP: Our Price: Saving: $ (%) Hawaiian kids cookbook: Quick and easy recipes for children everywhere Hawaiian kids cookbook: Quick and easy recipes for children everywhere Author: Patricia Collier Publisher: Recorder Pub. Co RRP: Our Price: Saving: $ (%) Recipes From the International Kitchen Recipes From the International Kitchen Author: Nino Martin Publisher: Hawaii Public Television RRP: Our Price: Saving: $ (%) The Hilo Woman's Club Cook Book: Hawaiian Recipes The Hilo Woman's Club Cook Book: Hawaiian Recipes Publisher: Hilo Tribune-Herad, Ltd., Hilo, Hawaii RRP: Our Price: Saving: $ (%) Viewing Page: 2 of 5 for Hawaiian-Recipes Hawaiian-Recipes 2 Hawaiian-Recipes 3 Recipe Books Seafood Recipes Meat Recipes Chicken Recipes Kitchen Appliance Recipes Healthy Recipes Famous Recipes Drink Recipes Vegetable Recipes Fruit Recipes Salad Recipes Dessert Recipes Chocolate Recipes Food Recipes Potluck Recipes Party Recipes Recipe Meals Pasta Recipes International Recipes African Recipes American Recipes Asian Recipes Australian Recipes Chinese Food Recipes Cuban Recipes English Recipes French Recipes German Recipes Greek Recipes Hawaiian Recipes Hungarian Recipes Indian Recipes Irish Recipes Italian Recipes Japanese Recipes Korean Recipes Mexican Food Recipes Polish Recipes Scottish Recipes Southern Recipes Spanish Recipes Thai Recipes Cookery Books Special Occasions Special Diets Quick & Easy Recipes Meals Cooking Outdoor Cooking Baking Recipes Cooking by Ingredient Drinks & Beverages African Cook Books Asian Cook Books European Cooking USA Cooking Canadian Cookery Books Latin American Cooking Mexican Cooking Cooking Stores Free Recipes UK Recipe Shop Recipe Store Housewares Store Baking Supplies Cookware Store Cutlery Store Gourmet Food Store Kitchen Appliances Vacuum Cleaner Store Related Searches Recipes Store in association with Amazon.com © 2005