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Charming, blue-collar Hilo is the unsung Hawaii SFGate Home Business Sports Entertainment Travel Jobs Real Estate Autos SFGate News Web by Charming, blue-collar Hilo is the unsung Hawaii Eric Brazil, Special to The Chronicle Sunday, August 25, 2002 now part of stylesheet -- Printable Version Email This Article Hilo, Hawaii --Because Hilo gets 130 inches of rain a year, lacks white-sand beaches and has a history of being clobbered by tsunamis, tourists tend to bypass Hawaii's second-biggest city. Big mistake. Hilo, the county seat of the Big Island, with a population of 47,000, has authentic South Seas charm, a vibrant local culture, a rich history and some of the grandest sights anywhere on the planet. Located on the windward side of the island, Hilo has taken a backseat as a tourist destination to the Kailua area on the Kona Coast, with its dry climate and reliable sunshine, luxury hotels, world-class sportfishing and famous coffee. Hilo's physical setting is spectacular, with false-fronted, early 20th century downtown buildings curving along Kamehameha Avenue around palm-lined Hilo Bay, and 13,796-foot Mauna Kea -- snow-crowned in winter -- rising majestically in the background. The city's tropical gardens are perpetually abloom with orchids, ginger and anthurium, and its orchards are heavy with avocados, bananas, guava and macadamia nuts. Just up the road, the active volcano Kilauea steams and smokes and sends molten lava streams snaking seaward. Unlike Honolulu, which is beset by many of the mainland's intractable big-city problems, or Kailua-Kona, with its array of glitzy shops and tourist hustle, Hilo is your basic working-class American small town, except for its decidedly tropical atmosphere. A city with a day-old-bread store smack in the middle of its main street does not put on airs. Yes, Hilo has sprawl. Development, including a huge shopping center with a Wal-Mart, creeps inexorably up Highway 11. But at the city's old, slightly ramshackle, multiethnic core, the beat is slow. Pidgin, the local dialect, is widely spoken here. The Wiki Wiki market advertises "Poi -- We Always Get" in its front window. An arborist in the Puna district bills himself as "Da Puna Pruna." One of Hilo's most colorful and distinctive institutions, the Suisan fish auction on the waterfront at Banyan Drive and Lihiwai Street, was recently closed and doesn't expect to reopen. But visitors can still experience fresh-from-the-producers action at the daily farmers' market on Kamehameha Avenue, where flowers, tropical fruit and vegetables, smoked fish, local cheeses and even some livestock are for sale. We saw a baby goat sold for $50 and led away on a rope leash by a father who evidently intended it as a family pet. Old-town Hilo, between Ponahawai Street and Wailuku Drive, extending three blocks back from Hilo Bay, is an easy stroll. But a car is handy for attractions on the edge of town, notably Rainbow Falls and the Boiling Pots on the Wailuku River, and the tropical gardens that lie just beyond the city limits. One of Hilo's don't-miss attractions is its Pacific Tsunami Museum. Hilo was devastated by two deadly "tidal waves." In 1946, 91 people died and most of the city's business district, an entire residential area, its railroad and the royal fish ponds were destroyed. In 1960, a 35-foot swell, born of an earthquake off the coast of Chile, 6,000 miles away, killed 61 people and destroyed 537 buildings. The museum features awe-inspiring photographs of the damage created by the tsunamis and a video, with scenes from both, plus interviews with survivors. "We're overdue for another big one," said Nani Pierce, a museum docent and survivor of the 1960 disaster. Hilo figures to be better prepared next time, since the installation of a fine-tuned early-warning system, plus the creation of clearly marked evacuation routes leading to higher ground. "First there's a warning," Pierce said. "Then 'it's coming' and finally 'watch out, it's here.' " Another worthwhile attraction is the Lyman Mission House and Museum. Built in 1839 by Congregationalist missionaries, it is the oldest wood-frame building on the island of Hawaii, and it contains an impressive aggregation of furniture, household implements and artifacts from the period when the impact of newly arrived people of European ancestry was first being felt in the Hawaiian Islands. Dining in Hilo can be an adventure. And it can be cheap. At Cafe 100 on Kilauea Avenue, we filled up for $4 each on loco moco -- a cholesterolically lethal, but tasty, concoction of fried meat under a mountain of gravy-soaked rice, topped with a fried egg. Cafe 100 serves 17 kinds of loco moco, including the Super Loco, which includes Spam, linguica, kim chee, two fried eggs and a side order of macaroni-potato salad. Low International Food, which occupies the corner of Kilauea Avenue and Ponahawai Street and specializes in unusual breads -- mango, guava, taro, coconut -- also serves something called a gravy burger. Being fainthearted haole mainlanders, we passed. Banyan Drive, a 15-minute stroll or a short drive from downtown Hilo, is a destination in itself, with luxury hotels, Uncle Billy's lounge -- which has a nightly Hawaiian musical act -- a nine-hole golf course and one of the most delightful public spaces anywhere, the Liliuokalani Garden. Meticulously landscaped, clean as a pin and free, the Japanese-style garden is situated on the edge of Hilo Bay and has been constructed to permit tidal movement in the pools set among its walking paths and flowering shrubs. Fishing is permitted. The banyan, ironwood and palm trees throughout the garden resound with birdsong -- principally mynah birds, which, along with mongooses and feral cats, are a dominant wildlife species on the Big Island and the bane of indigenous fauna. There are swimming beaches near town, but better ones are 45 minutes away on the Puna Coast, southeast of Hilo. Among them is Alalanui Park, where we soaked in a terrific, sandy-bottomed thermal pool, protected from crashing surf by a breakwater -- a good thing to remember when the tsunami alarm goes off. If you go-- GETTING THERE: Hawaiian and Aloha airlines fly regularly to Hilo from Honolulu.-- WHERE TO STAY: We stayed at the Hilo Hawaiian, 71 Banyan Drive, Hilo, HI 96720; phone, (800) 367-5004; Web, www.castleresorts.com . We got the Internet rate of $119 a night for an ocean-view room. Official rates are $149 for an ocean view, $183-$277 for suites, $119 for a garden view. We also stayed at the Dolphin Bay Hotel, 333 Iliahi St., Hilo, HI, 96720; (808) 935-1466; www.dolphinbayhotel.com . $72 a night for a standard double, which includes a kitchen; $99, for two-bedroom doubles. Shipman House B&B, 131 Kaiulani St., Hilo, 96720; (800) 627-8447; e-mail, inn keeper@hilo-hawaii.com ; Web, www.hilo-hawaii.com . This elegant "old Hawaii" landmark, built in 1800, is set on 5 exquisitely landscaped acres on a ridge above the city. It's worth a visit even if you don't stay there. Doubles, $145-$175 a night. Wild Ginger Inn, 100 Puueo St., Hilo, HI 96720; (877) 212-8276, www.wildgingerinn.com . Twenty-seven rooms within walking distance of downtown. Private rooms $45-$69, but the inn offers "shared accommodation" for four to six people per room at $15 apiece.-- WHERE TO EAT: Seaside Restaurant, 1790 Kalaniaole Ave.; (808) 935-8825. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 5-8:30 p.m. Reservations recommended. A terrific restaurant -- not much on decor, but splendid seafood raised in the owner's ponds in the backyard lagoon. Dinner for two with wine, about $60.-- WHAT TO DO: Pacific Tsunami Museum, 130 Kamehameha Ave., (808) 935-0926; www.tsunami.org . Adults, $5; students, $2; children under 5, free. Open Monday to Saturday, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Lyman Mission House and Museum, 276 Haili St.; (808) 935-5021, www.lymanmuseum.org . Open Monday to Saturday, 9 a.m.-4:30 p.m.-- FOR MORE INFORMATION: Big Island Visitors Bureau, 250 Keawe St., Hilo, HI 96720; (808) 886-1655, www.bigisland.org . Eric Brazil recently retired as a reporter for The Chronicle. Page C - 14 Get up to 50% off home delivery of the Chronicle for 12 weeks! EARLY SPRING PATIO FURNITURE SALE Order now at fantastic savings for Spring delivery Allegro Classics Bay Area Donate a car to Habitat for Humanity Your car donation helps build homes for families in need. 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Articles & Resources Sort By : Guide Picks | Alphabetical | Recent Hawaiian Quilt Collection Featuring quilts and wall hangings this is the website of a prestigious store found in two of the finest hotels on Oahu. Hawaiian Quilt Patterns Observe some of the major quilt patterns found in Hawaiian quilts. Hawaiian Quilts of Helen Friend A portrait of quilt master Helen Friend and her work. Helen is a master of modern and well as traditional designs. Well worth a read. Hawaiian Style Quilts Check out these beautiful quilts in the Hawaiian style. Man Made Quilts It's not just women that are responsible for some of the great Hawaiian quilts. Check out this article in the Honolulu Star-Bulletin to see the great work being done by male quilters in Hawaii. Poakalani's Hawaiian Quilting Page Althea Poakalani Serrao, was born with only one hand. She was kept away from the quilting circles because it was thought that she would hurt herself with the needle. Quilting in Hawaii Mission Houses Museum features one of the best collections of Hawaiian quilts. Rhonda's Hawaiian Quilts Located on Maui in the Hyatt Regency Kaanapali Hotel, here is there new website, still under construction. Topic Index | Email to a Friend Our Story | Be a Guide | Advertising Info | Work at About | Site Map | Icons | Help User Agreement | Ethics Policy | Patent Info. | Privacy Policy | Kids' Privacy Policy ©2006 About, Inc., A part of The New York Times Company . All rights reserved. Around About Tips to Losing Weight Guide to Distance Learning How to Travel for Less PHOTOS: Italy PHOTOS: Hybrid Cars What's Hot Top Picks in Hawaiian Coffee Kamehameha the Great Kalua Pig Waikiki Beach, Oahu - Life's a Beach in Hawaii - Hawaii Beac... Best Beaches 1999 Headlines 2006 Special Packages on Kauai For travelers considering a visit to the Garden Isle of... Plumeria Photos from Hawaii Plumeria is the most common flower that you'll find in... You Won't See This Sign at Home! This certainly isn't a sign that you've ever seen near... Atlantis Submarine Tour Maui Since I had just experienced the Atlantis Submarine Tour on... Hawaii cruise, Hawaii Cruises,Hawaii Oahu Maui Molokai Kauai Big Island Beaches Restaurants Hotels Waterfalls Latest Editions! Free priority mail Shipping!Save $3.85 When you Order From Us! All books ordered from Amazon.com are the LATEST editions, despite what they may state on their page. No older editions are for sale EVER on Amazon, so rest assured you are buying the newest version. Coming Soon Aqua BAMBOO HOTEL, Waikiki The Aqua Bamboo Hotel is recently renovated from the former Marc Hotel . The address is 2425 Kuhio Ave ., local telephone 808-922-7777 . The Bamboo's lobby [with large plasma screen TV] and pool area are very lovely, and in our room there are a lot of great features, including custom designed furniture, crown moldings, quality carpet, glass brick shower stall, a double sink curved vanity, slatted wood bathroom ceiling. With an "official" summer rate of $145 for the VERY spacious room [ significantly cheaper on the internet ], it includes a kitchenette without a microwave, a sitting area with TV, sofa and desk, a separate bedroom that is behind a louvered wood shutter wall, three sliding glass doors for great ventilation, a lanai, and the room is located high enough above the street not to be too noisy. The problems here were just cosmetic, but I filled out an opinion form my third day, and the problems were fixed, so high marks go to the Bamboo for quick response. The rooms are a very good value, tastefully decorated in a kind of Metropolitan Home magazine sort of modern Asian theme, and for my needs [computer, photo equipment, paperwork, my need to cook], just about perfect. Interested in Moving To, Or Buying Property In Hawaii? Our experience was a real eye-opener. And if you want to bring your pet, get ready for a complicated and bumpy ride! Read all about it. [coming soon] Disaster On The Pride of Aloha . Thinking of cruising the Hawaiian Islands with Norwegian Cruise Lines ? Maybe you should reconsider. Read all about it. COOL STUFF TO SEE AND DO! We Love Hilo! To experience the quintissential Hawaiian City, make Hilo your destination. Superb walking neighborhoods with sprawling kama`aina plantation-style homes, a surprisingly large number of great eating places, plenty of historic structures and interesting shopping make Hilo a must for the visitor interested in more than just a resort experience. There are no luxury resort hotels here, but the Hilo Hawaiian Hotel stands out for its great facilities, breezy lanais, fabulous views, powerful AC, and friendly room rates. Delicious Gourmet Breakfast, CHEAP! Oahu's Kapiolani Community College's Farmers Market offers the best in Hawaii-grown fruits and veggies, beef and chicken, cut flowers, baked goodies, and a cook-to-order gourmet breakfast for only around $5. [Photos] Stunning Beaches and Scrumptious Organic Food...CHEAP! The Aloha `Aina Cafe in Wai`anae is a non-profit enterprise teaching agriculture and marketing skills to the youth of the Leeward Coast. Scrumptious food is served here at bargain prices, with a Saturday Farmers' Market to boot. When you're done. visit some of Hawaii's most stunning beaches just up the coast! [Photos] Download Free Hawaii's Greatest Drives Maps ! Oahu Movie Location Map : all your favorite movie locations including Jurassic Park , From Here To Eternity, Pearl Harbor , Blue Crush and Sheryl Crow's Soak Up The Sun Video. P88OahuMovieDrive2003.pdf Oahu Circle Island Drive Map : The best of what to see if you have just one day, or even more. Oahu Circle Isl Drive5.pdf er You'll need Adobe Acrobat Reader to view and print the maps. Download Adobe Acrobat Reader here Why Rent A Car? Many people wonder if they'll "need" to rent a car on Oahu. Even though TheBus circles the island for a ridiculously low fare, you won't have access to all the side roads and back roads along the way. The cost of renting a car is so low, especially considering all the money you've already spent to get here, it makes no sense to not rent a car for at least a day. That's why we call our guides Driving & Discovering Hawaii books! Our Circle Island Driving Map shows you those places and features that we feel should not be missed if you only have one day to explore... although there are actually many more choices than what we have included here. These others can be found in great detail, with explicit driving instructions, In our Driving & Discovering Hawaii: OAHU guidebook. 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MHPCC is an Allocated Distributed Center of the Department of Defense High Performance Computing Modernization Program, providing more than 10,000,000 hours of computing time per year to the research, science, and warfighter communities. MHPCC's terascale, High Performance Computing resources showcase a wide range of technologies, which include a Cray XD1 with AMD Opteron processors, IBM Power3 and Power4 configurations, and large Linux clusters. MHPCC is a national resource chartered to support a diverse base of DoD and other government users, facilitating the collaborations needed to solve today's complex computational problems. What's New? more... Network Maintenance 24 January 2006 Network maintenance will be performed on Thursday, January 26th, 2006, from 14:00 until 17:00 HST (GMT -10 hours). Access to/from Tempest may be intermittent during this time. COBALT License Server Change 13 January 2006 The MHPCC license server will stop serving COBALT licenses on 1/16/2006. If you have trouble obtaining a COBALT license from CSI after this date, please try the following: more... Items of Interest 2005 Application Briefs are now available. Application Briefs from previous years are also available here . Cutting Edge Science at MHPCC Research lead by University of Hawaii microbiologist Maqsudul Alam could aid search for future blood substitutes. News Bytes: NSF Press Release Honolulu Star Bulletin Eurekalert Image and simulation by James Newhouse, MHPCC Select image for larger version ( 72KB). Maui High Performance Computing Center All rights reserved. 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