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Charming, blue-collar Hilo is the unsung Hawaii SFGate Home Business Sports Entertainment Travel Jobs Real Estate Autos SFGate News Web by Charming, blue-collar Hilo is the unsung Hawaii Eric Brazil, Special to The Chronicle Sunday, August 25, 2002 now part of stylesheet -- Printable Version Email This Article Hilo, Hawaii --Because Hilo gets 130 inches of rain a year, lacks white-sand beaches and has a history of being clobbered by tsunamis, tourists tend to bypass Hawaii's second-biggest city. Big mistake. Hilo, the county seat of the Big Island, with a population of 47,000, has authentic South Seas charm, a vibrant local culture, a rich history and some of the grandest sights anywhere on the planet. Located on the windward side of the island, Hilo has taken a backseat as a tourist destination to the Kailua area on the Kona Coast, with its dry climate and reliable sunshine, luxury hotels, world-class sportfishing and famous coffee. Hilo's physical setting is spectacular, with false-fronted, early 20th century downtown buildings curving along Kamehameha Avenue around palm-lined Hilo Bay, and 13,796-foot Mauna Kea -- snow-crowned in winter -- rising majestically in the background. The city's tropical gardens are perpetually abloom with orchids, ginger and anthurium, and its orchards are heavy with avocados, bananas, guava and macadamia nuts. Just up the road, the active volcano Kilauea steams and smokes and sends molten lava streams snaking seaward. Unlike Honolulu, which is beset by many of the mainland's intractable big-city problems, or Kailua-Kona, with its array of glitzy shops and tourist hustle, Hilo is your basic working-class American small town, except for its decidedly tropical atmosphere. A city with a day-old-bread store smack in the middle of its main street does not put on airs. Yes, Hilo has sprawl. Development, including a huge shopping center with a Wal-Mart, creeps inexorably up Highway 11. But at the city's old, slightly ramshackle, multiethnic core, the beat is slow. Pidgin, the local dialect, is widely spoken here. The Wiki Wiki market advertises "Poi -- We Always Get" in its front window. An arborist in the Puna district bills himself as "Da Puna Pruna." One of Hilo's most colorful and distinctive institutions, the Suisan fish auction on the waterfront at Banyan Drive and Lihiwai Street, was recently closed and doesn't expect to reopen. But visitors can still experience fresh-from-the-producers action at the daily farmers' market on Kamehameha Avenue, where flowers, tropical fruit and vegetables, smoked fish, local cheeses and even some livestock are for sale. We saw a baby goat sold for $50 and led away on a rope leash by a father who evidently intended it as a family pet. Old-town Hilo, between Ponahawai Street and Wailuku Drive, extending three blocks back from Hilo Bay, is an easy stroll. But a car is handy for attractions on the edge of town, notably Rainbow Falls and the Boiling Pots on the Wailuku River, and the tropical gardens that lie just beyond the city limits. One of Hilo's don't-miss attractions is its Pacific Tsunami Museum. Hilo was devastated by two deadly "tidal waves." In 1946, 91 people died and most of the city's business district, an entire residential area, its railroad and the royal fish ponds were destroyed. In 1960, a 35-foot swell, born of an earthquake off the coast of Chile, 6,000 miles away, killed 61 people and destroyed 537 buildings. The museum features awe-inspiring photographs of the damage created by the tsunamis and a video, with scenes from both, plus interviews with survivors. "We're overdue for another big one," said Nani Pierce, a museum docent and survivor of the 1960 disaster. Hilo figures to be better prepared next time, since the installation of a fine-tuned early-warning system, plus the creation of clearly marked evacuation routes leading to higher ground. "First there's a warning," Pierce said. "Then 'it's coming' and finally 'watch out, it's here.' " Another worthwhile attraction is the Lyman Mission House and Museum. Built in 1839 by Congregationalist missionaries, it is the oldest wood-frame building on the island of Hawaii, and it contains an impressive aggregation of furniture, household implements and artifacts from the period when the impact of newly arrived people of European ancestry was first being felt in the Hawaiian Islands. Dining in Hilo can be an adventure. And it can be cheap. At Cafe 100 on Kilauea Avenue, we filled up for $4 each on loco moco -- a cholesterolically lethal, but tasty, concoction of fried meat under a mountain of gravy-soaked rice, topped with a fried egg. Cafe 100 serves 17 kinds of loco moco, including the Super Loco, which includes Spam, linguica, kim chee, two fried eggs and a side order of macaroni-potato salad. Low International Food, which occupies the corner of Kilauea Avenue and Ponahawai Street and specializes in unusual breads -- mango, guava, taro, coconut -- also serves something called a gravy burger. Being fainthearted haole mainlanders, we passed. Banyan Drive, a 15-minute stroll or a short drive from downtown Hilo, is a destination in itself, with luxury hotels, Uncle Billy's lounge -- which has a nightly Hawaiian musical act -- a nine-hole golf course and one of the most delightful public spaces anywhere, the Liliuokalani Garden. Meticulously landscaped, clean as a pin and free, the Japanese-style garden is situated on the edge of Hilo Bay and has been constructed to permit tidal movement in the pools set among its walking paths and flowering shrubs. Fishing is permitted. The banyan, ironwood and palm trees throughout the garden resound with birdsong -- principally mynah birds, which, along with mongooses and feral cats, are a dominant wildlife species on the Big Island and the bane of indigenous fauna. There are swimming beaches near town, but better ones are 45 minutes away on the Puna Coast, southeast of Hilo. Among them is Alalanui Park, where we soaked in a terrific, sandy-bottomed thermal pool, protected from crashing surf by a breakwater -- a good thing to remember when the tsunami alarm goes off. If you go-- GETTING THERE: Hawaiian and Aloha airlines fly regularly to Hilo from Honolulu.-- WHERE TO STAY: We stayed at the Hilo Hawaiian, 71 Banyan Drive, Hilo, HI 96720; phone, (800) 367-5004; Web, www.castleresorts.com . We got the Internet rate of $119 a night for an ocean-view room. Official rates are $149 for an ocean view, $183-$277 for suites, $119 for a garden view. We also stayed at the Dolphin Bay Hotel, 333 Iliahi St., Hilo, HI, 96720; (808) 935-1466; www.dolphinbayhotel.com . $72 a night for a standard double, which includes a kitchen; $99, for two-bedroom doubles. Shipman House B&B, 131 Kaiulani St., Hilo, 96720; (800) 627-8447; e-mail, inn keeper@hilo-hawaii.com ; Web, www.hilo-hawaii.com . This elegant "old Hawaii" landmark, built in 1800, is set on 5 exquisitely landscaped acres on a ridge above the city. It's worth a visit even if you don't stay there. Doubles, $145-$175 a night. Wild Ginger Inn, 100 Puueo St., Hilo, HI 96720; (877) 212-8276, www.wildgingerinn.com . Twenty-seven rooms within walking distance of downtown. Private rooms $45-$69, but the inn offers "shared accommodation" for four to six people per room at $15 apiece.-- WHERE TO EAT: Seaside Restaurant, 1790 Kalaniaole Ave.; (808) 935-8825. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 5-8:30 p.m. Reservations recommended. A terrific restaurant -- not much on decor, but splendid seafood raised in the owner's ponds in the backyard lagoon. Dinner for two with wine, about $60.-- WHAT TO DO: Pacific Tsunami Museum, 130 Kamehameha Ave., (808) 935-0926; www.tsunami.org . Adults, $5; students, $2; children under 5, free. Open Monday to Saturday, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Lyman Mission House and Museum, 276 Haili St.; (808) 935-5021, www.lymanmuseum.org . Open Monday to Saturday, 9 a.m.-4:30 p.m.-- FOR MORE INFORMATION: Big Island Visitors Bureau, 250 Keawe St., Hilo, HI 96720; (808) 886-1655, www.bigisland.org . Eric Brazil recently retired as a reporter for The Chronicle. Page C - 14 Get up to 50% off home delivery of the Chronicle for 12 weeks! EARLY SPRING PATIO FURNITURE SALE Order now at fantastic savings for Spring delivery Allegro Classics Bay Area Donate a car to Habitat for Humanity Your car donation helps build homes for families in need. 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Picnic Potluck Brown Bag Dietary Diabetic Free of... Gluten-free Lactose Egg-free High in... High Calcium High Protein Kid Pleaser Toddlers Lighter Fare Vegetarian Vegan Low in... Low Cholesterol Reduced Carbs 1 2 Next» Smoked Turkey and Mango Wrap by LAURIE A awesome blend of flavors here in this recipe from a dollar store cookbook! Prep time does not include chilling time. #151157 Save to My Cookbook Hawaiian BBQ Chicken Quesadillas by Sabia I happen to love those BBQ chicken pizzas, especially with a little pineapple on top. So here's a lunch time creation when pizza dough or bread was not an option. Quick and so good! If I cook chicken for this I boil a chicken breast (can be... #147651 Save to My Cookbook Hawaiian Tea Sandwiches Filling by Marg@Cayman Designs I've eaten pineapple and cream cheese sandwiches before so I can't wait to try this combo. #143565 Save to My Cookbook Hawaiian Bread by kburie From Cooking Light (March 2005) #118916 Save to My Cookbook Waikiki Meatballs by SmHerndon (1 reviews) Aloha! This was my Nana's recipe, which I first made to serve as an Hors D'Oeuvre at our Housewarming Party. A hit! Quite good served as an entree with white rice, too, which is what Nana did. From Betty Crocker (1971) #115429 Save to My Cookbook Big Fruit Salad by MizEmerilLagasse (3 reviews) After an OVERLY hearty, boring, rich, oilly meat and potatoes kind of meal I really truely feel that everyone only wants one thing; something that's not overly hearty, boring, rich, and oilly! That is why I made this dessert salad that is also a... #97363 Save to My Cookbook Coconut Curry Chicken Sandwiches by MizEmerilLagasse I came up with this recipe for my father who is on a low-carb diet. I used low-carb bread instead of regular, but if you aren't low-carbing just use regular. #92977 Save to My Cookbook Crab Dip by Heather Beldin (9 reviews) I got this out of my mothers cookbook. It is so good yall have to try. #84293 Save to My Cookbook Cheeseball 3 by Heather Beldin (2 reviews) I had just made this for thanksgiving and my brother ate half of it LOL:) I love this and my family loves it too. I am looking foward to sharing this with you. Cook time includes chilling time. #78534 Save to My Cookbook Aloha Chicken Wings by Sue L (9 reviews) Baked chicken wing appetizers with a fruity pineapple-orange based sauce. Very good! Great for parties and sports get-togethers. #77820 Save to My Cookbook ADVERTISEMENT - Remove ads with Recipezaar Premium Cheeseball 2 by Heather Beldin (1 reviews) This is another family recipe along with Cheeseball 1. This is also very good. Cook time includes the chill time. Hope you enjoy. #77620 Save to My Cookbook Cheeseball 1 by Heather Beldin This cheeseball is a family recipe, and I am such a fan of cheese. The taste is so good. I will never buy store bought. #77618 Save to My Cookbook Calypso Shrimp by Secret (2 reviews) Whizbang Cafe - owner Tommy Sanford, chef Gary Smith #53782 Save to My Cookbook Healthy Coconut Shrimp by Secret (1 reviews) #53323 Save to My Cookbook Waikiki Banana Bars by Secret (8 reviews) . #53099 Save to My Cookbook The Best Seafood Salad by Secret I looked through all of the seafood salad recipes on here and although they all looked delicious I thought that I would try making my own with some ideas from the other seafood salad recipes that I seen on here and this turned out excellent. I... #42869 Save to My Cookbook Crabmeat Salad Deli Style by luv2luvya1000 (1 reviews) Delicious deli style crabmeat salad. Easy to make and out of this world! #40378 Save to My Cookbook Loaded Macadamia Nut Bread by Karen=^..^= (3 reviews) This yummy quick bread is loaded with nuts, coconut and pineapples. Very easy to make and extremely satisfying. #33709 Save to My Cookbook Teriyaki Beef Skewers by Secret This is a tasty delicious meal that is good served with rice. #32632 Save to My Cookbook Tropical Salsa by ChrisMc Here's a nice cool blend of spicy and sweet - this can be used as a garnish for chicken or fish, on chips, or whatever else you can think of. #31876 Save to My Cookbook 1 2 Next» Having Trouble? Try these... Search within these results for: Use the Category List on the left to narrow results. Post a Request for the Recipe and we'll help you find it. Ask a chef your question in our Cooking Q & A forum. 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Today, the membership consists of over 180 hotels representing 50,500 hotel rooms in the State of Hawaii, over 500 Special Active, Associate, Honorary, Life & Special Members, and Allied Members, for a total of over 700 members, and increasing each year. Our hotel members range from 3,432 rooms of the Hilton Hawaiian Village to the 4 rooms of the Bougainvillea Bed & Breakfast on the Big Island. The membership is made up of local, national and international chains includes Aqua Hotels & Resorts, Aston Hotels & Resorts, Castle & Cooke Resorts, Castle Hotels & Resorts, Fairmont, Four Seasons, Halekulani Corp., Hilton, Holiday Inn, HTH Corp., Hyatt Regency, Marc Hotels & Resorts, Marriott, Outrigger Hotels & Resorts, Ohana Hotels & Resorts, Prince Resorts, Radisson, Renaissance, Ritz Carlton, Sheraton, Starwood, Westin, etc." Na Po`e Pa`ahana Awards Luncheon January 10, 2006 January Issue of Hawaii Inn The Know 2006 Charity Walk Charity Walkers say Mahalo to our Troops Mark Your Calendar for Upcoming HHLA Events! The Hawai`i Hotel & Lodging Association, 2250 Kalakaua Avenue, Suite 404-4, Honolulu, HI 96815-2564 Phone: (808) 923-0407 Fax: (808) 924-3843 Questions? hhla@hawaiihotels.org |
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