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Charming, blue-collar Hilo is the unsung Hawaii SFGate Home Business Sports Entertainment Travel Jobs Real Estate Autos SFGate News Web by Charming, blue-collar Hilo is the unsung Hawaii Eric Brazil, Special to The Chronicle Sunday, August 25, 2002 now part of stylesheet -- Printable Version Email This Article Hilo, Hawaii --Because Hilo gets 130 inches of rain a year, lacks white-sand beaches and has a history of being clobbered by tsunamis, tourists tend to bypass Hawaii's second-biggest city. Big mistake. Hilo, the county seat of the Big Island, with a population of 47,000, has authentic South Seas charm, a vibrant local culture, a rich history and some of the grandest sights anywhere on the planet. Located on the windward side of the island, Hilo has taken a backseat as a tourist destination to the Kailua area on the Kona Coast, with its dry climate and reliable sunshine, luxury hotels, world-class sportfishing and famous coffee. Hilo's physical setting is spectacular, with false-fronted, early 20th century downtown buildings curving along Kamehameha Avenue around palm-lined Hilo Bay, and 13,796-foot Mauna Kea -- snow-crowned in winter -- rising majestically in the background. The city's tropical gardens are perpetually abloom with orchids, ginger and anthurium, and its orchards are heavy with avocados, bananas, guava and macadamia nuts. Just up the road, the active volcano Kilauea steams and smokes and sends molten lava streams snaking seaward. Unlike Honolulu, which is beset by many of the mainland's intractable big-city problems, or Kailua-Kona, with its array of glitzy shops and tourist hustle, Hilo is your basic working-class American small town, except for its decidedly tropical atmosphere. A city with a day-old-bread store smack in the middle of its main street does not put on airs. Yes, Hilo has sprawl. Development, including a huge shopping center with a Wal-Mart, creeps inexorably up Highway 11. But at the city's old, slightly ramshackle, multiethnic core, the beat is slow. Pidgin, the local dialect, is widely spoken here. The Wiki Wiki market advertises "Poi -- We Always Get" in its front window. An arborist in the Puna district bills himself as "Da Puna Pruna." One of Hilo's most colorful and distinctive institutions, the Suisan fish auction on the waterfront at Banyan Drive and Lihiwai Street, was recently closed and doesn't expect to reopen. But visitors can still experience fresh-from-the-producers action at the daily farmers' market on Kamehameha Avenue, where flowers, tropical fruit and vegetables, smoked fish, local cheeses and even some livestock are for sale. We saw a baby goat sold for $50 and led away on a rope leash by a father who evidently intended it as a family pet. Old-town Hilo, between Ponahawai Street and Wailuku Drive, extending three blocks back from Hilo Bay, is an easy stroll. But a car is handy for attractions on the edge of town, notably Rainbow Falls and the Boiling Pots on the Wailuku River, and the tropical gardens that lie just beyond the city limits. One of Hilo's don't-miss attractions is its Pacific Tsunami Museum. Hilo was devastated by two deadly "tidal waves." In 1946, 91 people died and most of the city's business district, an entire residential area, its railroad and the royal fish ponds were destroyed. In 1960, a 35-foot swell, born of an earthquake off the coast of Chile, 6,000 miles away, killed 61 people and destroyed 537 buildings. The museum features awe-inspiring photographs of the damage created by the tsunamis and a video, with scenes from both, plus interviews with survivors. "We're overdue for another big one," said Nani Pierce, a museum docent and survivor of the 1960 disaster. Hilo figures to be better prepared next time, since the installation of a fine-tuned early-warning system, plus the creation of clearly marked evacuation routes leading to higher ground. "First there's a warning," Pierce said. "Then 'it's coming' and finally 'watch out, it's here.' " Another worthwhile attraction is the Lyman Mission House and Museum. Built in 1839 by Congregationalist missionaries, it is the oldest wood-frame building on the island of Hawaii, and it contains an impressive aggregation of furniture, household implements and artifacts from the period when the impact of newly arrived people of European ancestry was first being felt in the Hawaiian Islands. Dining in Hilo can be an adventure. And it can be cheap. At Cafe 100 on Kilauea Avenue, we filled up for $4 each on loco moco -- a cholesterolically lethal, but tasty, concoction of fried meat under a mountain of gravy-soaked rice, topped with a fried egg. Cafe 100 serves 17 kinds of loco moco, including the Super Loco, which includes Spam, linguica, kim chee, two fried eggs and a side order of macaroni-potato salad. Low International Food, which occupies the corner of Kilauea Avenue and Ponahawai Street and specializes in unusual breads -- mango, guava, taro, coconut -- also serves something called a gravy burger. Being fainthearted haole mainlanders, we passed. Banyan Drive, a 15-minute stroll or a short drive from downtown Hilo, is a destination in itself, with luxury hotels, Uncle Billy's lounge -- which has a nightly Hawaiian musical act -- a nine-hole golf course and one of the most delightful public spaces anywhere, the Liliuokalani Garden. Meticulously landscaped, clean as a pin and free, the Japanese-style garden is situated on the edge of Hilo Bay and has been constructed to permit tidal movement in the pools set among its walking paths and flowering shrubs. Fishing is permitted. The banyan, ironwood and palm trees throughout the garden resound with birdsong -- principally mynah birds, which, along with mongooses and feral cats, are a dominant wildlife species on the Big Island and the bane of indigenous fauna. There are swimming beaches near town, but better ones are 45 minutes away on the Puna Coast, southeast of Hilo. Among them is Alalanui Park, where we soaked in a terrific, sandy-bottomed thermal pool, protected from crashing surf by a breakwater -- a good thing to remember when the tsunami alarm goes off. If you go-- GETTING THERE: Hawaiian and Aloha airlines fly regularly to Hilo from Honolulu.-- WHERE TO STAY: We stayed at the Hilo Hawaiian, 71 Banyan Drive, Hilo, HI 96720; phone, (800) 367-5004; Web, www.castleresorts.com . We got the Internet rate of $119 a night for an ocean-view room. Official rates are $149 for an ocean view, $183-$277 for suites, $119 for a garden view. We also stayed at the Dolphin Bay Hotel, 333 Iliahi St., Hilo, HI, 96720; (808) 935-1466; www.dolphinbayhotel.com . $72 a night for a standard double, which includes a kitchen; $99, for two-bedroom doubles. Shipman House B&B, 131 Kaiulani St., Hilo, 96720; (800) 627-8447; e-mail, inn keeper@hilo-hawaii.com ; Web, www.hilo-hawaii.com . This elegant "old Hawaii" landmark, built in 1800, is set on 5 exquisitely landscaped acres on a ridge above the city. It's worth a visit even if you don't stay there. Doubles, $145-$175 a night. Wild Ginger Inn, 100 Puueo St., Hilo, HI 96720; (877) 212-8276, www.wildgingerinn.com . Twenty-seven rooms within walking distance of downtown. Private rooms $45-$69, but the inn offers "shared accommodation" for four to six people per room at $15 apiece.-- WHERE TO EAT: Seaside Restaurant, 1790 Kalaniaole Ave.; (808) 935-8825. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 5-8:30 p.m. Reservations recommended. A terrific restaurant -- not much on decor, but splendid seafood raised in the owner's ponds in the backyard lagoon. Dinner for two with wine, about $60.-- WHAT TO DO: Pacific Tsunami Museum, 130 Kamehameha Ave., (808) 935-0926; www.tsunami.org . Adults, $5; students, $2; children under 5, free. Open Monday to Saturday, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Lyman Mission House and Museum, 276 Haili St.; (808) 935-5021, www.lymanmuseum.org . Open Monday to Saturday, 9 a.m.-4:30 p.m.-- FOR MORE INFORMATION: Big Island Visitors Bureau, 250 Keawe St., Hilo, HI 96720; (808) 886-1655, www.bigisland.org . Eric Brazil recently retired as a reporter for The Chronicle. Page C - 14 Get up to 50% off home delivery of the Chronicle for 12 weeks! EARLY SPRING PATIO FURNITURE SALE Order now at fantastic savings for Spring delivery Allegro Classics Bay Area Donate a car to Habitat for Humanity Your car donation helps build homes for families in need. 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We charge NO SERVICE FEES ... and our hotel location information and unique cost codes will save you time and money. If you like this guide, please add it to your Favorites list .. Makahuena at Poipu - Poipu Beach - $$$$ 1661 Pe'e Road, Poipu Beach, Kauai, HI 96756 Swimming pool Overview | More Info | Map | Availability & Rates Nihi Kai Villas - Poipu Beach - $$$$ 1942 Poipu Road, Poipu Beach, Kauai, HI 96756 Swimming pool Overview | Map | Availability & Rates Poipu Crater Resort - Poipu Beach - $$$ 1943 Poipu Road, Poipu Beach, Kauai, HI 96756 Swimming pool - fitness center Overview | Map | Availability & Rates Poipu Kai Resort - Poipu Beach - $$$ 1941 Poipu Road, Poipu Beach, Kauai, HI 96756 Swimming pool - restaurant - lounge Overview | Map | Availability & Rates Thanks for using our Poipu Beach, Kauai, Hawaii hotels guide. We hope you enjoy your trip. Related search terms: hotels/motels motel hoteles moteles condo rentals condos rental condominium condominiums lodging accommodations accommodation inns inn destination destinations romantic weekend getaways getaway breaks honeymoon packages holiday package holidays vacation vacations travel best choice discount rate price discounts cheap hotels budget hotel deals dog friendly in near by nearby close to around search finder Abbreviations, variants, misspellings: oceanfront beachfront hi. hawaiian poipubeach ocean front beach front ha ha. hawaian hawii hawai hawiia hawiian hawaiin hawiiee hawaiihotel hawaiihotels hihotel hihotels accomodation accomodations accomadation accomadations petfriendly dogfriendly MORE HAWAII HOTELS All State of Hawaii Hotels Island of Hawaii HI Hotels Island of Kauai HI Hotels Island of Lanai HI Hotels Island of Maui HI Hotels Island of Molokai HI Hotels Island of Oahu HI Hotels Aiea HI Hotels Hana HI Hotels Hilo HI Hotels Honokowai HI Hotels Honolulu HI Hotels Kaanapali HI Hotels Kahana HI Hotels Kahuku HI Hotels Kahului HI Hotels Kailua-Kona HI Hotels Kamuela HI Hotels Kapaa HI Hotels Kapalua HI Hotels Kapolei HI Hotels Kaunakakai HI Hotels Kihei HI Hotels Kohala Coast HI Hotels Koloa HI Hotels Kona HI Hotels Lahaina HI Hotels Laie HI Hotels Lanai City HI Hotels Lihue HI Hotels Maalaea HI Hotels Makaha Beach HI Hotels Mauna Loa HI Hotels Napili HI Hotels Poipu Beach HI Hotels Princeville HI Hotels Volcano Village HI Hotels Waikoloa HI Hotels Wailea HI Hotels Wailua HI Hotels Waimea HI Hotels All State of Hawaii Hotels USA Hotels - all states World Hotels - all countries Who We Are Our Privacy Policy No Service Fees Fewer Advance Charges Some Surprising Deals ! Hotel & Air Travel Packages Compare Car Rentals Order Free Travel Guides HOTEL COST CODES $ = Under $60 $$ = $60-99 $$$ = $100-149 $$$$ = $150-199 $$$$$ = $200 + AOM, Rack, Special, & Traveler's Discount Rates are for everyone. TIPS & SUGGESTIONS Tip 1 Make reservations early. Some hotels cut off online reservations 1 to 3 days before check-in time. Tip 2 When you make a reservation, you will receive a confirmation email. Print a copy of this message to take with you ... and don't delete the original email until you have completed your stay and know you have been billed correctly. Tip 3 Our hotel cost codes are based on the lowest peak season rates available to all guests. We do offer discount rates for corporate and government employees, AAA and AARP members, seniors, and other special groups. But we do not base our cost codes on these discounts. Off-season room prices may be much lower than our cost codes indicate. This is especially true for coastal hotels during the winter. 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